welding steel base or just getting aluminium extrusion

[driftspin]

Thanks guys, just would like to ask a question that i can't seem to find the answer to on the forum But has anyone ran a machine for multiple years using epoxy resin without it weakening over time? also what methods do you do to get top and bottom rails lined up to exact same position?



Got my keys today for my workshop so will be cracking on soon :)

Hi reefy86,

I would like an answer to the epoxy question to :-)


For Y rail alignment?

I used 2 extruded profiles across the x rails in front of an behind the gantry.

And 2 across on top of them, parallel to the x rails under the gantry.

Now you have 2 flat references to put 2 machinist squares on. in a horizontal/ upright position on both sides of the gantry.
In the same X rail level plain.

The bottom of my gantry is half raised 12+ cm over the X rails.

I moved the rail so the carriages are just over the edge of the beam so it is close as possible to the Z axis side so the machinist square just touches them and not the gantry box section.
The rail is on the edge of useable flat of the epoxy.

Hope this helps.



Some left over extrusion 8040 goes a long way for alignment purposes.

I did check them for resonable straightness before using them this way.

You need square and flat references all through the build, i did under estimate this.

If not for epoxy this would never have worked out for me.


Grtz Bert


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[reefy86]

What do you think of my idea which probably some of you may think its a waste of money on the extra epoxy resin.

There will be 2 gantry sections so the z axis is boxed in the middle.

this is just a quick rough up, the red pieces are the epoxy resin fully cured

1. weld the steel box sections together

2. lay the sections down on a level surface and pour epoxy resin

3. after 10 days or however long it takes to cure flip the sections back to normal position.

4. attach gantry side plates and adjust and bolt to as square as you can get it.

5. again pour epoxy resin to level both sections on the same plane

6. attach the linear rail on the front of the sections and then use a magnetic gauge indicator and use the top to line up the rails.

[reefy86]

Would like some opinions on the above please :) in the meantime i am purchasing necessary tools to get the job started but would like your input if possible.

1. how accurate of 1800mm straight edges and if someone can recommend one if the cheap ones are no good.

2. is bigger the better for the engineer squares? seen some 300mm ones but are nearly £100 each

3. anything else you recommend i should buy to make things easier on the way?

I know you guys are probably sick of hearing from me now lol but things will actually be getting done once i have ordered the necessary tools.

[Nr1madman]

Im impressed, so I have to cheer you on :D

I know myself so I know I could never do this without access to a finished cnc router.

Take it slow, be super careful and think about where you need adjustment capability.

If you pull this off you can be mighty proud

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[reefy86]

Im impressed, so I have to cheer you on :D

I know myself so I know I could never do this without access to a finished cnc router.

Take it slow, be super careful and think about where you need adjustment capability.

If you pull this off you can be mighty proud

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Thanks mate appreciate it

[Nr1madman]

Hmm how about jonathans build with the red frame? Didnt that one have similar solutions?

:D

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[Boyan Silyavski]

I think this could be a very serious challenge to put all together with the needed precision. This designs is not stronger than my design. Which is simpler. More rails and more head scratching.

[reefy86]

I think this could be a very serious challenge to put all together with the needed precision. This designs is not stronger than my design. Which is simpler. More rails and more head scratching.

Hi Boyan, I was trying to keep the z axis very strong using the box design so would you say a single beam is more then capable? or is there something else that you think is over complicated.

cheers

[Boyan Silyavski]

Hi Boyan, I was trying to keep the z axis very strong using the box design so would you say a single beam is more then capable? or is there something else that you think is over complicated.

cheers

I think you are from those type of people that will not listen to reason as you all ready have decided your way and you like challenges. This impression i have from the thread and our PM. So i don't want to discourage you, as if i say what i think and you listen to me, will have to start from scratch

Whatever way to do it will be possible if you are persistent and have enough time. So no worries, if this is what you feel is the way. For me this is a design for an experienced machinist who has a mill at home. What more to say.

[reefy86]

Know worries Boyan mate i don't not listen otherwise i would of started this by now :) I have all the steel/welding equipment ect just waiting on getting some decent engineer squares and edges but i won't be starting the frame until i am happy hence why i keep playing around with the design. Not in a bad way but i was kind of trying to do some manual labour in cad software myself rather then just using someone else's and that is why i keep coming up with these designs not that i am saying its good and i am going to build it its more of a trial and error and if i get told its bang on then it makes me feel good because i made the cad drawing if you know what i mean.

Also not sure if you seen it in my post but when you say for experienced machinist with a mill well all my pieces that need milling will be done by someone who has the equipment this is why i need to make sure my drawing is spot on and not too complicated to put together.

Please don't think i am on here rushing because i give you my word i am not

Cheers