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  1. #1
    Back emf: from the coil of the contactor/relay.

    But I don’t know the particular UB1 output spec. If a mosfet might find it has a commutatinf diode built in, otherwise place a 1N4001 across the coil, cathode to 24v line, anode to ground

  2. #2
    Does this answer one of your your questions about VFD?
    http://www.mycncuk.com/threads/4985-...spindle-wiring
    About the last question i believe this can do the job :
    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3278...27424c4d4NkJmR

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by Doddy View Post
    Back emf: from the coil of the contactor/relay.

    But I don’t know the particular UB1 output spec. If a mosfet might find it has a commutatinf diode built in, otherwise place a 1N4001 across the coil, cathode to 24v line, anode to ground
    Perfect, Thanks

    Quote Originally Posted by Nickhofen View Post
    Does this answer one of your your questions about VFD?
    http://www.mycncuk.com/threads/4985-...spindle-wiring
    About the last question i believe this can do the job :
    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3278...27424c4d4NkJmR

    Cheers Nick!

    Little more progress on the Z axis - managed to mill the channels required for the Z ballscrew yesterday. Bridgeport wasn't trammed perfectly, so the surface is a little off, (I was under quite strict time constraints and the tramming worm screw is broken - so its as good as I could get without it) but it will certainly do the job I need it to. Assembled the Z axis for a test-fit late last night, but forgot to take pictures, so they'll follow.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    My monster of an electrical cabinet has also arrived... 800x600x300 is massive, but should fit everything!! Went for the glazed door option, although unfortunately it has some dings in the door - I'm guessing its just a grey hammerite paint touchup job.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I know I promised frame photos.... but I'm still halfway through painting the bed, and I'm not massively pleased with my 'smooth' hammerite finish. Despite our best efforts, the paint ran all over the place and whilst the surface is smooth, the light clearly reflects the brush strokes. :/ Any advice appreciated!

  4. #4
    I use paint rollers to paint my bed,the painting is faster and easier to applied this way .
    If you see lines this means that you have to thinner the paint , when the paint is thinner is leveled when applied, but be careful not to use too much thinner.

  5. #5
    Thanks Nick, what do you use to thin it? How much?

    Test assembly of the Z axis with obligatory drill movement test (although I can rotate the screw by hand):
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    Last edited by AndyUK; 17-06-2019 at 09:56 PM.

  6. #6
    You have to use the exact thinner type that the company suggest,about how much you will find it on the color container. I usually start with less thinner than the amount the company suggest,then try the thinned paint on a surface with the paint roller and let it seat for about ten minutes .
    If it is not transparent and the color is leveled it self,I mean you do not see marks after ten minutes,you can do your job, with the roller you might notice small bubbles in the color,it is ok those are going to disappear when the color cures
    If the paint is sticky add thinner, shake well before use!
    Make one thick pass and do not repaint after some minutes or hours , because the new paint will dilute the old one and you will end up with a mess....
    Good luck!

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