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  1. #1
    urgh this machine is doing my head in... really tempted to just scrap it all, been trying to find out what the Chinese charts actually mean on the board so I don't damage the board by doing something wrong.
    I initially was looking around at breakout boards and their reviews and discovered my breakout board has on board axis drivers as well so if I ever decide to replace it I have to buy stepper drivers as well.
    So was looking at the MX3660 which seems perfect (all in one, little hassle) just trying to find a seller and then thought I'm getting distracted again.
    I have on the board ("ON DP" K1, K2, K3, K4) accompanied with SW1, SW2 AND SW3 per X Y and Z drivers
    K3 and SW1 are the switches set for all three drivers
    I found a chart that may assist but still I know too little on this side as all I wanted was to make stuff with the machine.
    http://img.yunqudao.com/UploadFolder...ault/3_649.jpg
    is changing K3 to K1 what you mean Doddy to set the micro stepping?
    Also I'm going to do a test by taking the motors off of the frame and see if they still make the jarring noise when not attached to the rails, if they still do whilst disconnected then that should eliminate any frame/rail/ball-screw issues I presume and my guess would be either power or a faulty connections somewhere right?
    if the motors run smoothly and no jarring when loose then I pretty much scrap the frame? (take hammer to it)
    Also (sorry for all the questions) but how can I tell what PSU I have as the only sticker on it was all in Chinese?
    PS. the things I have done so far are the following:
    brought a standalone dedicated pc with XP and parallel cable for the cnc so no background extras or settings to interfere.
    tested multiple settings in Motor Tuning with all having same affect (all three axis jar at least twice and not always in the same area)
    tested the rails and alignment also checked the frame was square
    have not yet used the machine in any form or had the spindle on whilst testing the motors.
    I have not been able to switch the parallel cable with another yet as do not have a spare.
    would a UC100 connection solve issues between pc and control box IF it is a communication issue?
    (tired now but was trying to think all possibilities)
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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  2. #2
    I don't know if this has been covered and frankly at 2:30 in the morning I can be arsed to go back over the posts and look. BUT have you checked that the wiring to the stepper motors is solidly connected and that there are no internal breaks in the wiring. Is your machine new or 'pre loved'?

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by Palletlad View Post
    I have on the board ("ON DP" K1, K2, K3, K4) accompanied with SW1, SW2 AND SW3 per X Y and Z drivers
    K3 and SW1 are the switches set for all three drivers
    I found a chart that may assist but still I know too little on this side as all I wanted was to make stuff with the machine.
    http://img.yunqudao.com/UploadFolder...ault/3_649.jpg
    is changing K3 to K1 what you mean Doddy to set the micro stepping?
    A quick bit of clarification, the "ON DP" marking on the DIP switches (the 4-inline blue switches) - the ON represents the position of the "On" state of the switch. So it's not a case that you have K3 on, but rather that you have K1, K2, K4 on. Looking at the markings on the board that represents 8 micro steps. Change one axis (and one only) to Off, Off, Off, Off (all toggles towards the numbers, away from the "ON DP" and retest.

    (I'm assuming in the chart on the board that '1' represents a switch in the ON position... not a safe assumption, but the existing settings support that)

    Note, that axis will run at 8x the original speed, so you'll have to tune the motor for that axis.

    Do this with the motors still hooked up to the machine.

    I think removing the steppers from the machine to test... interesting if this does present the problem, but I doubt that it will - the sound is mechanical, and likely related to the stepper performance in situ with the machine. Doesn't mean the machine is toast - just that you have to track down the system, rather than component behaviour... altogether more fun.

  4. #4
    This is probably shutting the stable door......... but, only bugger about with one thing at a time.
    I know it's a temptation to change multiple settings on multiple axes in hardware and software at the same time but all that does is confuse you and make it impossible for anyone else to draw any conclusive conclusions.
    You think that's too expensive? You're not a Model Engineer are you? :D

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  6. #5
    m_c's Avatar
    Lives in East Lothian, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 11 Hours Ago Forum Superstar, has done so much to help others, they deserve a medal. Has a total post count of 2,971. Received thanks 369 times, giving thanks to others 9 times.
    Going by the picture, K1 and K2 set the microsteps.
    K3 and K4 set standby current.
    And the SW set motor current.

    If the new computer has made no difference, then that should rule that out.

    You've got nothing to lose by trying with the motors disconnected from the machine.
    What's making me think it's not mechanical, is the seemingly random position the thud occurs, and that it affects more than one axis. If it was something like a bit swarf in a ballnut, I'd expect it to stall completely until the direction is reversed. I'd also expect to be able to feel something moving it by hand. You could perhaps try running the screws with a cordless drill and see if you can feel anything, as something like swarf may only show itself at speed.

    However, to me it sounds more like a glitch in the electronics side. My next step would be to try a different power supply, or hook up an oscilloscope to see what was going on.

    To answer your previous post, don't get an all in one system. Get a separate BOB, and if funds are really tight, get some of the basic TB6560 stepper drives. They're far from high performance, but they'll match what you've got, and individual drives can be swapped later if needed.
    Avoiding the rubbish customer service from AluminiumWarehouse since July '13.

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  8. #6
    I do plan on doing the checks in stages but I thought about seeing if I can prepare a check list and go through it step by step.

    I have ordered another db25 cable so going to check the cable.
    I am going to grab lithium WD40 spray and give the ball screws and rails a coat.
    I am going to test the motors on their own.
    If still no luck I will check the board settings as Doddy suggests.
    If still no luck then I will purchase PSU I found this one https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/15261107092...9916224&crdt=0, are these safe to purchase or do i need to go to some specific website to avoid dodgy components?
    then go from there by purchacing a bob and stepper drivers as recommended by M_C.
    Thanks guys btw for the help thus far and don't panic I am not going to do all and everything in one go.

  9. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by Palletlad View Post
    If still no luck then I will purchase PSU I found this one https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/15261107092...9916224&crdt=0, are these safe to purchase or do i need to go to some specific website to avoid dodgy components?
    VM (Max) for a TB6560 is 40V. I'd suggest a 36V PSU.

  10. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Palletlad View Post
    I do plan on doing the checks in stages but I thought about seeing if I can prepare a check list and go through it step by step.

    Don't forget the cordless drill test on the ballscrew that m_c suggested - it's a good idea.

  11. #9
    m_c's Avatar
    Lives in East Lothian, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 11 Hours Ago Forum Superstar, has done so much to help others, they deserve a medal. Has a total post count of 2,971. Received thanks 369 times, giving thanks to others 9 times.
    Just checked, and I should of said get TB6600 drivers if you do replace them.
    TB6560 is the older chip, whereas the TB6600 is newer, far more resilient, and has better performance.

    Which has also reminded me that the TB6560 has quite a large pulse width requirement. It needs a 10uS minimum pulse width, which limits it to 15KHz step rate. Some where in the Mach settings (think it's the motor tuning screen), there is a box for setting the pulse width. Make sure you have it set long enough.

    The attached chart shows the key differences between the chips.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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    Avoiding the rubbish customer service from AluminiumWarehouse since July '13.

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  13. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by m_c View Post
    However, to me it sounds more like a glitch in the electronics side. My next step would be to try a different power supply, or hook up an oscilloscope to see what was going on.
    I tend to agree - but am not convinced yet that this isn't an interaction between the electrical side and the mechanical side. I fear a scope is literally beyond the scope of the investigation so far, and a PSU should show problems simultaneously on jogs on two concurrent axis (and likely exacerbated by such).

    OP: Are you familiar with microcontrollers?, I'm thinking in particular I could knock you up an arduino sketch to generate a pulse train to step an axis over a predetermined distance, reverse, etc. Even check out the effects of pulse-width and so on. This would give a health-check on the machine from controller through steppers (including PSU). But for this you'd have to be happy with how to program an arduino and how to connect it to the parallel port interface on the controller (3 wires - ground, step, dir).

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