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  1. #1
    Just a quick update, I have confirmed that there is no issue with the frame alignment or ball screw.
    I tested the motors when not connected to anything and even on low settings (320,1000,150,0,0)=motor settings.
    And they still jam/jar.
    so definitely something to do with the electrics/settings.

  2. #2
    What's the

    Quote Originally Posted by Palletlad View Post
    low settings (320,1000,150,0,0)=motor settings
    part?, have you not tried larger pulse widths on step/direction?
    Last edited by Doddy; 15-02-2018 at 07:56 AM.

  3. #3
    Doddy I did attempt with pulses as well but no difference it was the same result what ever setting I attempted.

  4. #4
    Is this a good BoB? https://www.amazon.co.uk/Motion-Cont...breakout+board as I am unsure what I am looking for other than how many axis, connector type (USB/Parallel) would this be a good card to have https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/...9I2AQIQH&psc=1 also https://www.amazon.co.uk/Switching-P...ywords=psu+48v.
    I wont be buying straight away if need be as I still want to check the PSU 1st before any buying but I understand my currant card cant handle a 48v only 36v but is the one I linked good for the above linked items?
    Would the setup I have linked be a good idea or are they not a good combination?
    Cheers guys for your time.

  5. #5
    Did you not read post #54 as the drive above is very similar and nearly double the price
    ..Clive
    The more you know, The better you know, How little you know

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Clive S View Post
    Did you not read post #54 as the drive above is very similar and nearly double the price
    I think I have 5 of the ones that you linked to sitting in a corner collecting dust... will check tonight and if they are, and my memory serves me correctly, will post a photo or two. There might be justifiable caution to buying from our Chinese friends.

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by Doddy View Post
    I think I have 5 of the ones that you linked to sitting in a corner collecting dust... will check tonight and if they are, and my memory serves me correctly, will post a photo or two. There might be justifiable caution to buying from our Chinese friends.
    Ah yes, I have a number of these, advertised as TB6600s but which are, in fact, TB67S109AFTG drivers.

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    Taking one apart...

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    No TB6600, but on the rear....

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    A tiny QFN package, pasted to a bit of a heatsink that is then coupled to a secondary heatsink.

    After you've been caught once with these, spotting them is pretty easy. For one thing - they advertise a 32 micro step, which isn't supported by the TB6600 (only 16 micro steps).

    There's some discussion online that supports these as a reasonable alternative to the TB6600s, but you need to read the data sheets and understand each on their own merits. Personally, I think the thermal solution on these is poor - you could end up with the chip shutting down under load. The R(on) is 20% higher than a 6600 (that's a bad thing that exacerbates the thermal solution). The max clock is 100kHz - doesn't sound bad unless your using 32 micro steps (then it's 100,000 / 32 microsteps / 200 steps/revolution stepper = 15.625 revs/sec, or 937.5RPM max out of the stepper (the 6600 is rated at 200kHz, and only supports 16 micro steps). Lower working voltage and lower drive current (4A vs 5A). Although rated upto 50V worryingly the 67S109 data sheet gives typical characteristics at 24V.

    I bought them, and they didn't work well for me (missing steps), but my replacements (TB6600s) also had similar problems that needed the optoisolators updating. I'm not saying they're good, or bad, but different to that advertised.
    Last edited by Doddy; 15-02-2018 at 07:17 PM.

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Clive S View Post
    Did you not read post #54 as the drive above is very similar and nearly double the price
    the only reason I queried that one is because its via amazon so if there was any issues I can replace them via amazon for free under their warranty. I haven't gone through all of them so far as it is its still just a query.

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by Palletlad View Post
    Is this a good BoB? https://www.amazon.co.uk/Motion-Cont...breakout+board as I am unsure what I am looking for other than how many axis, connector type (USB/Parallel) would this be a good card to have https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/...9I2AQIQH&psc=1 also https://www.amazon.co.uk/Switching-P...ywords=psu+48v.
    I wont be buying straight away if need be as I still want to check the PSU 1st before any buying but I understand my currant card cant handle a 48v only 36v but is the one I linked good for the above linked items?
    Would the setup I have linked be a good idea or are they not a good combination?
    Cheers guys for your time.
    That's NOT a BoB, it is a complete motion controller. Don't buy it. In my opinion buying drivers based on the Toshiba chip is a mistake. Get the DQ542MA drivers instead, they are miles better. I would also avoid switching PSU. Also, don't be afraid of eBay... there are also plenty sellers with UK (or other EU countries) warehouses with quick shipping. If you have any issues PayPal will give you a refund.

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by Palletlad View Post
    Just a quick update, I have confirmed that there is no issue with the frame alignment or ball screw.
    I tested the motors when not connected to anything and even on low settings (320,1000,150,0,0)=motor settings.
    And they still jam/jar.
    so definitely something to do with the electrics/settings.
    Good. At least we know that the mechanics are OK. Now change the pulse width to 10. If that doesn't help KEEP it there and change speed to something really low, like 500. If that is still an issue then you probably have a faulty driver card, or a faulty PSU, or both.

    I started off with a 3 axis 6560 (blue card). Fixed all the electronic design issues but still managed to fry two before I gave up. In the end I bought a $5 BoB and a handful of DQ542MA drivers and never looked back. My CNC immediately became more quiet, more powerful, faster and with much better acceleration, even though at that time I still had a crappy 24V switched PSU. Changing the driver was the key to success in my case because it solved a lot of issues. That's the route I'd advice you to walk through even if you manage to sort out the current issues. I am still using the same drivers but upgraded the PSU and the CNC in many other ways...

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