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  1. #1
    Quote Originally Posted by diycnc View Post
    The drivers dont have positive and negative marked on the input, both are just labelled AC. I'm guessing thats because its AC it doesn't matter which way around its connected?
    Does this also apply to the location of the fuse?
    Yep often they are labeled R S but can put anyway around. I always connect live to R and Nuetral to S

  2. #2
    Finally got around to putting some test electronics together, just need to connect the motor and flash grbl onto the arduino. Would be awesome if someone could take a look at my wiring befor I do anything too stupid. I'm a bit unsure about the earth at the moment. The negative enable, step, and pulse are all connected together and the ground pin on the arduino. And mains earth isn't connected to anything at the moment.
    Once I have one tested and working, will test all three together.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by diycnc; 24-11-2019 at 08:42 PM.

  3. #3
    Just spotting I have the fuse on the zero volt side of the psu!

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by diycnc View Post
    Just spotting I have the fuse on the zero volt side of the psu!
    Maybe because you've used brown for 0V and blue for +68V & hence thought the fuse was in the "live" side?? I tend to try to keep blue and brown for mains N and L and use other pairs of colours e.g. red/black or orange/violet for other power rails, helps to know what's what if the wiring gets "busy". As it's AC and floating it really doesn't matter anyway!
    Last edited by Voicecoil; 24-11-2019 at 09:50 PM.

  5. #5
    That's exactly what I was planning on doing, but at some point I managed to wire brown to + and blue to 0! Not really sure how.
    When it comes to the finally wiring I'm definaltly planning on using other colours to differentiate. Is there a standard when it comes to control panel wiring?

  6. #6
    If it were me I'd run the enable, pulse and dir. signals as twisted pairs - common the -ve ends up at the Arduino. This approach gives much cleaner waveforms and better resistance to interference.

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  8. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by Voicecoil View Post
    If it were me I'd run the enable, pulse and dir. signals as twisted pairs - common the -ve ends up at the Arduino. This approach gives much cleaner waveforms and better resistance to interference.
    Would something like a CAT 6 cable be a good idea?

  9. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by diycnc View Post
    Would something like a CAT 6 cable be a good idea?
    CAT6, CAT5 whatever you have lying about. Try one length of cable per driver with all the screens grounded at the Arduino end as well. If you can keep the cable runs for driver input signals and high current motor outputs separate that helps too.
    An optimist says the glass is half full, a pessimist says the glass is half empty, an engineer says you're using the wrong sized glass.

  10. #9
    Doddy's Avatar
    Lives in Preston, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 3 Weeks Ago Has been a member for 9-10 years. Has a total post count of 1,364. Received thanks 188 times, giving thanks to others 66 times. Referred 1 members to the community.
    <deleted - thought I was replying to a recent post about wooden enclosures... >

  11. #10
    All three drivers tested and working perfectly. Thanks for everyone's help with this!

    Iv got a feeling it might be a while before I make any more progress on this. Some genius (me ) decided to start decorating three rooms at the same time, so that has to take priority now or the missis won't be too happy if it ain't finished before Christmas

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