Thread: First Proper CNC Router
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31-01-2018 #1
I have a Clark mini lathe so getting them the same length should be easy.
I did consider putting the motor behind the gantry... can't remember why I chose not to. I'm sure there was a reason. I'm gona look at this again cos it would be a nicer design.
Thanks for the pulley info, I will take a look at the design formulas for reference anyway. They might come in useful one day.Last edited by diycnc; 31-01-2018 at 10:53 PM.
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01-02-2018 #2
The motor location is a no-brainer to me. Machine the gantry side to accept motor with a slot for adjustment and lengthen ball screw so goes thru side then put the belt on outside of gantry out the way from chips etc and put a cover over. Simple and neat.
Pulley size is little small but nothing to do with teeth but because you won't have enough Boss left after machining for grub screws. This will then mean putting grub screws thru the teeth which isn't ideal.
I find 20 teeth gives good balance leaving enough boss for M5 grub screws. Certainly no less than 18T.Last edited by JAZZCNC; 01-02-2018 at 12:25 AM.
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The Following User Says Thank You to JAZZCNC For This Useful Post:
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01-02-2018 #3
That's a brilliant idea! Can't believe I missed that.
Any suggestions how I could cut a pocket in the aluminium end plate? I currently only have hand tools, a pillar drill, small lathe, trim router, circular and jig saw, no cnc or mill.
I guess I could just cut out a big slot in the aluminium end plate, big enough to fit the motor through. Bolt the motor to a thinner aluminium or steel plate, which is then bolted onto the end plate. No need to cut any pockets.
Or I could just pay someone to cut them to me, but where's the fun it that!
I didn't know the boss dimensions changed when pulley size changed. Will take a closer look at this later today.
I would prefer to use taper lock pulleys on the motors but I can't find any that will fit my 8mm motor shafts.Last edited by diycnc; 01-02-2018 at 02:22 PM.
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01-02-2018 #4Any suggestions how I could cut a pocket in the aluminium end plate? I currently only have hand tools, a pillar drill, small lathe, trim router, circular and jig saw, no cnc or mill.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=22cC...-dWEjqhAPJw0Bz..Clive
The more you know, The better you know, How little you know
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01-02-2018 #5
You won't find taper lock that go that small on teeth size. 32-34 is about smallest you'll find. Plus they are heavy so have lots of inertia which can live without on small motor.
Like Clive says get the router out if want some pockets. It's easy done just go at it steady.
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14-02-2018 #6
So iv moved the motor as JAZZCNC suggested. Im pretty happy with the whole gantry design now so iv started figuring out where im gona put all the nuts and bolt. The whole thing is held together with about a million M5 screw! Takes bloody ages to figure out where they need to go. But id rather do it now in CAD where its easy to move things around, rather than during the build where mistakes could be costly.
Iv also been thinking about Z axis alignment, both spindle to the axis, and the axis to the machine bed. For spindle to axis measurement I plan to use the same method I used to align my lathe head stock. Its called rollies dads method. Probably massive overkill for this aplication, but its easy to do so why not. Rotation adjustments about the X axis will be made using shims, and Y axis by just roating the spindle by hand and some oversizes holes in the spindle mount.
For measurement of alignment of the Z axis to the bed i will use a this DTI method.
Adjustment will be achieved with shims between the stationary Z axis plate and the X axis plate, plus two M3 leveling screws though small blocks shown in the attached image. The two screws are just over 100mm apart, and m3 screws are 0.5mm pitch. This gives me 0.3 degree adjustment per turn. I can lock the leveling screw when the axis is allied, and hopefully I will be able to remove and replace the Z axis if needed without the need to realign anything.
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07-03-2018 #7
So i'm finally ready to order steel and aluminium for the frame.
Can anyone recommend suppliers in the Manchester area.
Im currently looking at ordering only from Aluminium Warehouse and Austen Knapman.
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07-03-2018 #8
I use Aluminium warehouse, i have heard various stories about them but i still cant find anyone better/cheaper
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