1220 × 2440 build

**HullMark** · 05-03-2018

Originally Posted by Desertboy

Looks a lot like my Z axis but I have BK12/BF12 fittings

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Cost me ~£100 to build but I recovered the Hiwin's.

Yeah that's nice and simple looking, is it meaty enough Desertboy for your uses?

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**HullMark** · 05-03-2018

Originally Posted by JAZZCNC

Here's design that will allow you to be more flexible with the frame. Although the base here is in one piece it could easily be made in 2 or 3 pieces and bolted together.
The important part is the full-length profile section running full length down each side. This will allow you some flexibility in adjustment so can get both rails on same plane without messing around epoxy resin etc. Must stress thou the accuracy will only really be good enough for cutting woods and softer materials. It will also take lot of setting up and tweaking until spot on.
In my experience profile is relatively flat and straight enough for wood router and does make fitting rails, ball screws etc much easier. The downside is cost so mixing steel and profile gives good balance of strength, costs and accuracy with ease of building which doesn't require too much machineing or timely and costly techniques for leveling etc.

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I guys hope all is well. So much to do with so little time! When I've been looking at doing something like this, I've been concerned about how to attach the profile to the steel so it's strong and minimises lateral forces. Are you really sure just bolting it on the bottom via those brackets is strong enough?

I don't know how clear it is in the pictures I've sent, but I've used 90mm box section with 160 x 40 profile sat on the top. This gives 35mm overhang either side and would allow me to bolt the profile from the top down on the inside and outside edges of the outer steel lengths. Also does the gantry look strong enough now? Cheers.

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**HullMark** · 05-03-2018

Oh jeez I just worked out this base structure would weigh over 300kg!

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**HullMark** · 05-03-2018

Like this

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**JAZZCNC** · 05-03-2018

Originally Posted by HullMark

I guys hope all is well. So much to do with so little time! When I've been looking at doing something like this, I've been concerned about how to attach the profile to the steel so it's strong and minimises lateral forces. Are you really sure just bolting it on the bottom via those brackets is strong enough?

Never said was just bolted to brackets. In fact, it's not that simple.!
There would be adjustment bolts between profile and steel to get the two rails parallel because couldn't rely on the frame being perfectly square.

These are the hidden things which cannot be seen but make a huge difference to how well the machine performs. Again can't stress enough always think adjustability when designing.

**HullMark** · 05-03-2018

Originally Posted by JAZZCNC

Never said was just bolted to brackets. In fact, it's not that simple.!
There would be adjustment bolts between profile and steel to get the two rails parallel because couldn't rely on the frame being perfectly square.

These are the hidden things which cannot be seen but make a huge difference to how well the machine performs. Again can't stress enough always think adjustability when designing.

Thanks for getting back to me. Ahh I see! So how would you go about fixing those adjustment bolts to the steel frame? Showing my inexperience here. I was wondering about how with my design I could get the profiles lined up along the x axis (this is why I want ott with the aluminium in the earlier design), adjusting the height along the length wouldn't be a problem with those cleats, could just use shims ... I had an idea for the x axis, but it isn't empirical or anything, just basically a bit of measuring and trial and error.

I appreciate what you're saying about being able to make adjustments, i can imagine all of the that could go wrong if things aren't aligned properly, and making things adjustable will allow me to get everything dialled in.

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**HullMark** · 09-03-2018

Having considered the logistics and cost etc. I've decided to go with a smaller machine. This will fit in a brick shed that's already in my garden with ease. Should make things a lot easier and cheaper in terms of the build. 1220 x 1220 I can make work for what I want it for. Thanks for all the input so far from everyone it's been a lot of help!

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**malcolm01** · 09-03-2018

Originally Posted by HullMark

Having considered the logistics and cost etc. I've decided to go with a smaller machine. This will fit in a brick shed that's already in my garden with ease. Should make things a lot easier and cheaper in terms of the build. 1220 x 1220 I can make work for what I want it for. Thanks for all the input so far from everyone it's been a lot of help!

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Good idea mark! For a long time I thought I had built mine too big. 90% of the time I’m cutting stuff no bigger than A3

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**HullMark** · 10-03-2018

Originally Posted by malcolm01

Good idea mark! For a long time I thought I had built mine too big. 90% of the time I’m cutting stuff no bigger than A3

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Thanks for the reply Malcolm. The way I figure it, if I build a smaller one with the same budget, I could make a better quality machine too. If I make it robust enough to work on aluminium, I'll be able to machine my own parts if I ever need to build a bigger machine.

It's looking like September will be when I start the actual build process. I'm hoping to have everything together by then so I can get it done ASAP, without any errors and not skimp on costs.

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**malcolm01** · 10-03-2018

Originally Posted by HullMark

Thanks for the reply Malcolm. The way I figure it, if I build a smaller one with the same budget, I could make a better quality machine too. If I make it robust enough to work on aluminium, I'll be able to machine my own parts if I ever need to build a bigger machine.

It's looking like September will be when I start the actual build process. I'm hoping to have everything together by then so I can get it done ASAP, without any errors and not skimp on costs.

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Sounds like a plan pal

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