Where do you buy your Epoxy resin from

[CharlieRam]

Cheers Clive and Bert, Clive that was exactly what i was looking for :)
One more thing...... Can you check my calculations to make sure I'm right

2 rails 135cm x 4cm wide + 2 bridges @ 77.5cm x 4cm with depth of 6mm
(135+135+77.5+77.5)X4X0.6 = 1020cm3 = 1.02 Litres

1.02 Litres / 4 = 0.255 Litres 209 Hardener
@3:1 ratio by volume = 0.765 Litres of Resin.

Seems the weights are not quite 1 litre to 1 Kg as the manual states the ratio is 3.5:1 by weight.

Regards,

Charlie

[driftspin]

Cheers Clive and Bert, Clive that was exactly what i was looking for :)
One more thing...... Can you check my calculations to make sure I'm right

2 rails 135cm x 4cm wide + 2 bridges @ 77.5cm x 4cm with depth of 6mm
(135+135+77.5+77.5)X4X0.6 = 1020cm3 = 1.02 Litres

1.02 Litres / 4 = 0.255 Litres 209 Hardener
@3:1 ratio by volume = 0.765 Litres of Resin.

Seems the weights are not quite 1 litre to 1 Kg as the manual states the ratio is 3.5:1 by weight.

Regards,

Charlie

Are you doin a aluminum profile gantry

?


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[CharlieRam]

Frame is steel, Gantry is all aluminium

http://www.mycncuk.com/threads/7733-...-router-design

I started it nearly 4 years ago!

[driftspin]

Frame is steel, Gantry is all aluminium

http://www.mycncuk.com/threads/7733-...-router-design

I started it nearly 4 years ago!

The math is sound :-)

I found that my box section 1850x120x80x4 mm was + 2 mm bend in the middle by welding heat.

I had a +/- 1mm error in spirit level. over 1850 mm...

It all add up. so 6mm thickness... i am not sure.. i did not have the best of spirit levels
So on the ends i have 8 and 7 mm thickness now.. 5.5 or so in centre.

I had some leaks while pouring.

Mostly because of heat from the shop heater on the channel sides.
Wood dried and bended.

Can see through under the square rails through the epoxy now
Make sure to use packing tape on the sides ... best tip ever.

Ok hope this helps.

I have steel gantry so more pouring on there for me.

Get the A pack.. it is 50 gbp or so.



Grtz Bert.


If you like to gamble a little...

Carbonwinkel.nl is where i bought.
Google translate is your friend here.
GLS delivered from German warehouse.

w300 5 hour potlife @ 75euro for 3kg.

Has about the same spec compared to 105 209

First day you think it is never going solid









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[CharlieRam]

The math is sound :-)

I found that my box section 1850x120x80x4 mm was + 2 mm bend in the middle by welding heat.

I had a +/- 1mm error in spirit level. over 1850 mm...

It all add up. so 6mm thickness... i am not sure.. i did not have the best of spirit levels
So on the ends i have 8 and 7 mm thickness now.. 5.5 or so in centre.

I had some leaks while pouring.

Mostly because of heat from the shop heater on the channel sides.
Wood dried and bended.

Can see through under the square rails through the epoxy now
Make sure to use packing tape on the sides ... best tip ever.

Ok hope this helps.

I have steel gantry so more pouring on there for me.

Get the A pack.. it is 50 gbp or so.



Grtz Bert.


If you like to gamble a little...

Carbonwinkel.nl is where i bought.
Google translate is your friend here.
GLS delivered from German warehouse.

w300 5 hour potlife @ 75euro for 3kg.

Has about the same spec compared to 105 209

First day you think it is never going solid









Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-A320FL met Tapatalk

All the steel frame is welded apart from the steel top rail tube section which is bolted on to allow me to shim the rails prior to pouring epoxy. I'm thinking of pouring in two sessions 1 day apart so it's still able to chemically bond but 1st pour of approx 3mm to try and fill any dips and also to find any leaks! Then 2nd pour a day or two later so that any depth difference doesn't affect the shrinkage.

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[Clive S]

All the steel frame is welded apart from the steel top rail tube section which is bolted on to allow me to shim the rails prior to pouring epoxy. I'm thinking of pouring in two sessions 1 day apart so it's still able to chemically bond but 1st pour of approx 3mm to try and fill any dips and also to find any leaks! Then 2nd pour a day or two later so that any depth difference doesn't affect the shrinkage.

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

When you do the final pour if you see any bubbles you can flash a hot air gun across the top and they will disappear.

Also don't be in a hurry to remove the moat give is at least 8-9 days before you touch it.

[driftspin]

All the steel frame is welded apart from the steel top rail tube section which is bolted on to allow me to shim the rails prior to pouring epoxy. I'm thinking of pouring in two sessions 1 day apart so it's still able to chemically bond but 1st pour of approx 3mm to try and fill any dips and also to find any leaks! Then 2nd pour a day or two later so that any depth difference doesn't affect the shrinkage.

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Not sure i understand..

Epoxy is to prevent the need for shimming ? No?


Are you shimming and then fitting rail in wet epoxy maybe?


I found my wet epoxy film needed about 4mm + to flow at some speed..

Not sure how to explain this well... not native in english..


Grtz Bert.






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[CharlieRam]

Not sure i understand..

Epoxy is to prevent the need for shimming ? No?


Are you shimming and then fitting rail in wet epoxy maybe?


I found my wet epoxy film needed about 4mm + to flow at some speed..

Not sure how to explain this well... not native in english..


Grtz Bert.






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Shimming just to get the rails more even before I apply the resin, probably a little overkill

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[driftspin]

Frame is steel, Gantry is all aluminium

http://www.mycncuk.com/threads/7733-...-router-design

I started it nearly 4 years ago!

Oh 4years.. that is a good warning to keep at it.....

Thanks for that...


Going to order some stuff for psu now


Grtz Bert.




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