Thread: Control box rebuild
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22-05-2018 #21
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22-05-2018 #22
I'm on a buzz atm with lots of thoughts of this and that, think I found my second calling in building electronics (1st being woodwork) though I have a long way to go in learning.
My thought was in regards to the main cables from the drivers to the motors, although it was fun cutting and soldering the 4 pin plugs I was contemplating to have a single cable (per motor) running from the stepper to the motor with no 4 pin plug then if needed to separate I simply unplug the green connecter block on the driver.
Is this a done "practical" option or do people just stick with the plugs.
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22-05-2018 #23
if I remember correctly a post on cnczone showed a control box with the cable going through a strain relief instead of the more usual plug & socket
this has the advantage of reducing the number of joints
but the possible down side is damage to the driver if you to unplug the connector from the driver very often
while some of the problems are due to cheap copies of the green connectors being used (I can not remember the original manufacturer)
you will find examples burnt connectors in both cheep chinese machines and on the Leadshine 3nd883 drivers used by Tormach
http://www.model-engineer.co.uk/foru....asp?th=127744
JohnLast edited by john swift; 22-05-2018 at 02:03 PM.
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25-05-2018 #24
Ok grounded the psu's and vfd, moved most of the power leads away from the data cables.
I was getting what I think is EMI interference across the motors as you can see on my links: one being how the motors misbehave and the second being how they are now after fiddling about.
Thoughts and opinions are appreciated.
Last edited by Palletlad; 25-05-2018 at 12:34 AM.
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16-09-2018 #25
I was talking to a guy who does control electronics for a living and he suggested twisted pair on all data cables inside an enclosure as a better option to shielded.
Logical when you think about it as a wiring scheme which cancels interference is potentially more robust than one which tries to shield data cables from interference.
I'm giving it a go and it seems good so far ;-)You think that's too expensive? You're not a Model Engineer are you? :D
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The Following User Says Thank You to magicniner For This Useful Post:
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19-06-2019 #26
Hi all, I'm having another go at the control box to get rid of the gremlins.
My first attempt failed ended up killing my drivers and breakout board with a static discharge (so I've been told) so have brought a new container with a metal backing and have started from scratch a new design.
I have made a video in order for you to review and see with your experienced eyes anything that stands out as good/bad, criticism is all welcome.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FL1fY_2_VPo
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19-06-2019 #27
Hi There,
Nice looking box and work - Some ideas
1.) Fans - Try not have the fans on the same surface as the air will just go in and out across that surface you would want the air to go across the box as much as possible so maybe one on the bottom front into the box and one on top of the box - sort of how they do it on PC cases. you can always get a multi meter with a heat sensor to check your internal temps of the components
2.) EMI and Ground Loop - it's always difficult to know if putting so many switch mode power supplies close together will cause EMI issues. when you connect your table make sure you don't create ground loops. my machine is all aluminum and I was happily making ground loops all over my table.
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The Following User Says Thank You to erasma For This Useful Post:
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26-06-2019 #28
Getting there control box all up and running now just need to wire up limit switches and vfd however discovered the fan is dead in the vfd... going to test the vfd and spindle tonight and see if it's functional and hopefully it's just a case of replacing the fan.
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27-06-2019 #29
Can anyone recommend a specific vfd or seller of vfds.
I'm not looking at doing any metal work just hard wood at most on my 6040.
Is their particular specs I need to look for?
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02-07-2019 #30
Glad you making progress:)
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