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  1. #1
    When I had this problem (except with the Z axis) it turned out that the "direction" wire had come out of the drive. The drive thought that the direction was always the same polarity (whichever it pulls to) so the step pulses always made it go the same way. It happened just after I had done some mods to the unit that involved disturbing the wiring. Poked the wire in the term block, did the screw up properly, problem solved. The same thing would happen if the connection had come off at the BoB end of the link, or on the BoB itself. Trace it through before you buy a new BoB.
    Last edited by JohnHaine; 17-05-2018 at 09:47 AM.

  2. #2
    I tested the wiring but not the actual pins on the board, I will do that as well as try using the A axis pins.
    question what would I be looking for when using a multimeter on the pins or should I say what are they meant to read if worked correctly? actually I could compare the other working axis to show what it should be so answered my own question there.
    Also was thinking over the A axis swap method as JohnSwift mentioned, When I activate the A axis with 8 and 9 pins how do I make the system treat A as Y or do I put the Y pins 4 and 5 into the A axis?
    Before I did have a parallel port with a previous BoB which did have all 3 axis working however I burnt that one out accidently so got the cheap one you see in the picture also I went for this BoB because it had the relays for controlling the VFD on/off and Speed control.
    Last edited by Palletlad; 17-05-2018 at 01:40 PM.

  3. #3
    assuming you are using mach 3

    I expect in ports and pins you have

    X axis step = pin 2 , direction= pin 3

    Y axis step = pin 4, direction = pin 5

    Z axis step= pin 6 , direction= pin 7

    if that is correct

    change the Y axis to

    Y axis step= pin 8 , direction = pin 9
    then connect the " A axis " output terminals 8 & 9 to the Y axis stepper driver

    John
    Last edited by john swift; 17-05-2018 at 02:08 PM.

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  5. #4
    Sorted, all axis are working now. Just need to finish figuring out the vfd part now. Funnily enough I know how to wire the spindle speed but the simple on off relay on the bob connects to ? on the vfd...probably staring right at the answer but can't see it.

  6. #5
    great result you have control of the stepper motors sorted

    the relay will connect between the common and the forward switch terminal on the VFD

    in the VFD manual there is usually a diagram to wire switches for the manual control of the VFD and a remote potentiometer to control the speed

    on a CNC machine the variable DC voltage from the potentiometer is replaced by the 0 to 10V output from the breakout board
    and the relay replaces the forward switch

    do you have a link to download the VFD ?
    or post the make and model number to search for the manual

    John

  7. #6
    if your VFD manual has a manual remote control some thing like this -

    Click image for larger version. 

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    you could connect the BOB like this

    Click image for larger version. 

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    John

  8. #7
    What I've found on the Web so far is for the spindle control it is as follows:
    Com - GND
    AN1 - 0-10v
    X1 - pin 17
    However looking at your diagram X1 (FW) is used for on off relay.
    Here's what I have vfd end Click image for larger version. 

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    I'll try out your diagram, will getting the wires wrong do any damage to the vfd?

  9. #8
    Hi all, I'm having another go at the control box to get rid of the gremlins.

    My first attempt failed ended up killing my drivers and breakout board with a static discharge (so I've been told) so have brought a new container with a metal backing and have started from scratch a new design.

    I have made a video in order for you to review and see with your experienced eyes anything that stands out as good/bad, criticism is all welcome.


    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FL1fY_2_VPo

  10. #9
    Hi There,

    Nice looking box and work - Some ideas

    1.) Fans - Try not have the fans on the same surface as the air will just go in and out across that surface you would want the air to go across the box as much as possible so maybe one on the bottom front into the box and one on top of the box - sort of how they do it on PC cases. you can always get a multi meter with a heat sensor to check your internal temps of the components

    2.) EMI and Ground Loop - it's always difficult to know if putting so many switch mode power supplies close together will cause EMI issues. when you connect your table make sure you don't create ground loops. my machine is all aluminum and I was happily making ground loops all over my table.




    Quote Originally Posted by Palletlad View Post
    Hi all, I'm having another go at the control box to get rid of the gremlins.

    My first attempt failed ended up killing my drivers and breakout board with a static discharge (so I've been told) so have brought a new container with a metal backing and have started from scratch a new design.

    I have made a video in order for you to review and see with your experienced eyes anything that stands out as good/bad, criticism is all welcome.


    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FL1fY_2_VPo

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