First Build - Yet Another Alu Profile Router - 900 x 800

[routercnc]

Agree the 24V psu and TB6560 drivers give very low performance and possibly lost steps under load.

You can hand make the large end L plates using a template and router with a carbide fluted end mill. Accuracy is not critical as the outline is mainly cosmetic and the holes can be drilled oversized. If you are fussy they can be the first things you remake with the machine.

Belt drive is often neater as the stepper can be tucked away. At 2010 you would usually 1:1 drive for wood and 2:1 ( step down) for aluminium.

Z axis should be sketched soon as the ballscrew location, ballnut, and stepper location at the end of the gantry all need to fit together. You also need to add the spindle plus a cutting bit to check the gantry is at the right height to give the range of movement you need on the Z axis plus clearance to machine over a vice.

1605 is often fine for Z but if you have bought the other size then use that.

Draw as much as you can before cutting anything because the details can catch you out !

[CaptainBarnacles]

Agree the 24V psu and TB6560 drivers give very low performance and possibly lost steps under load.

You can hand make the large end L plates using a template and router with a carbide fluted end mill. Accuracy is not critical as the outline is mainly cosmetic and the holes can be drilled oversized. If you are fussy they can be the first things you remake with the machine.

Belt drive is often neater as the stepper can be tucked away. At 2010 you would usually 1:1 drive for wood and 2:1 ( step down) for aluminium.

Z axis should be sketched soon as the ballscrew location, ballnut, and stepper location at the end of the gantry all need to fit together. You also need to add the spindle plus a cutting bit to check the gantry is at the right height to give the range of movement you need on the Z axis plus clearance to machine over a vice.

1605 is often fine for Z but if you have bought the other size then use that.

Draw as much as you can before cutting anything because the details can catch you out !

Some good points there, many thanks.

I think I am leaning towards cutting my own plates and, like you said, if I'm not entirely happy with them I'll machine replacements when I'm up and running. I normally tear through wood based projects because I am so comfortable and familiar with the material and I know how what tolerances I have to play with. Clearly working with metals is going to be a whole different ball game and I'm going to be working much more slowly, methodically and precisely (hopefully!). I'll also need to avoid errors as the raw material cost is so much higher than most woods - being a Yorkshireman I'm going to be sqeezing every last penny

I like the idea that the motors are tucked into the footprint of the frame as there's less chance of them getting knocked. I'm operating in a fairly confined space (my garage) so anything that saves space is a bonus.

Is it possible to have two sets of pulleys and belts and swap them over for specific materials? I imagine that I'll be cutting wood 95% of the time so could I run a set of 1:1 and then swap it out for a 2:1 when cutting acrylic and aluminium? Would I just need to change the parameters in my software to account for it?

Looks like I'll be on the Fusion 360 for a few days! I have only had a few hours experience of it so far and after many years of using Sketchup I am finding the learning curve pretty steep.

Thanks again for all the advice.