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16-11-2018 #41
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16-11-2018 #42
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16-11-2018 #43
Not on my machine. The bed is actually a big thick slab of cast iron, onto which is bolted an ali plate, which is drilled and tapped for tooling. It's basically sacrificial. As this is used machine, the plate had a few cuts in it and after transit and moving ect, it needed leveling.
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16-11-2018 #44
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16-11-2018 #45
No. It's a 3ph motor in there so what you should have currently is just the 3 U V W power wires. I can't remember off the top of my head what the optimal core diameter is for the cable but depending what power spindle you have it isn't hard to figure out the max current and find out on google.
Ah, I see. Very nice. Likelihood is it's a cast 5 series aluminium. In which case try drop your RPM by 20%. Have to feed a bit harder in that stuff.
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16-11-2018 #46
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16-11-2018 #47
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16-11-2018 #48
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16-11-2018 #49
OK being an ex mechanic and a crafty bugger, I have shielded the original spindle cable and run it separately from the rest. I have also earthed all bodies.
Let's see how it fairs. Its running a program now its always struggled with. Lego block lol.
Anyway after reading and thinking about what you said it dawned on me. Yes before I was running spindle speeds above 5000 rpm there wasn't much current so little interference, since its been running upto and beyond 15000 rpm that's when it started going haywire.
Let's see if my DIY shielding worked
Sent from my F8331 using Tapatalk
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16-11-2018 #50
If you've only been taking a light surface cut, then the wear on that cutter would be as expected, especially if chip clearance has been poor along with no lubrication.
If chips start getting re-cut (I.e. not cleared from the cutter), then in soft materials they will start welding to the cutter. As soon as that happens, your nice sharp edge is now covered by a blunt layer of material, and the problem will compound from there as heat builds up at an ever increasing rate, until something finally fails.
I never realised you were machining aluminium with that cutter (I'd assumed you were still working with brass), but in aluminium you want polished cutters so there is as little roughness as possible on the cutter to avoid chips sticking (coated cutters are often rougher, but in aluminium coatings make little difference, which is why uncoated polished is usually preferred). You also want a bit lubrication to help stop things sticking. Lubrication can vary from an occasional spray of WD40, to mist, to full flood coolant.
On something like that bed surfacing job, a light spray of WD40 across the part at the start along with just enough air to clear chips would be more than ample to keep things running smoothly.Avoiding the rubbish customer service from AluminiumWarehouse since July '13.
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