binding barrel bolt meets a carriage bolt

[JEK5019]

okay -

once critical detail, however - and that is hoping to have no drive at either end.

i came across this binding barrel that is press-fit. but i doubt that'll provide enough tension to hold in place.

also - if i decide to use a binding barrel with a drive head - i would prefer to be a thin head - but all the heads i looked at are bulky.

i'm using mcmaster-car / are there any other manufacturers that you can recommend?

cheers -

jón

[magicniner]

Make your own axles for your product, it's fairly basic lathe work.

[JEK5019]

i'm sure it is - however, this is a small smart in an overall design i am working on - if the design proves to be successful - i'll be needing to make approximately several thousand pieces easily!

custom work at that level wouldn't prove cost effective - so i am trying to manage ready-made assets, if possible.

[magicniner]

You need to step away from your fixation on a fastener designed for easy use in non-engineering applications, they don't make threaded Chicago Screws without driver slots because they need to be user friendly for their intended purpose, holding together books, material sample swatches etc.
Use a length of tube with two press-in ends.

[JEK5019]

indeed.

my primary concern is movement. is there an epoxy that i can use where the tube meets the channel?

[magicniner]

indeed.

my primary concern is movement. is there an epoxy that i can use where the tube meets the channel?

To do what? You don't have the area to securely bond the tube to the channel with epoxy so why would you want to put epoxy there?
Tube
Holes in the channel the same size as the tube ID.
Hammer Drive Screws
Job done.

[JEK5019]

okay -

so this seems like a viable solution. however, i would imagine that after pressing in the drive screws - they would probably 'slighting' bulge the inner tube - thus creating friction for the center barrel to rotate smoothly?

is this correct?

[hanermo2]

A peen, aka pin punch on one corner of the flat blue bolt flat area will mostly lock it in place.
This can be done in an inside-supporting fixture, think fork, avoiding distorting the U shaped hold.

Any industrial epoxy will fix the blue bolt, depending on load and the size of the end plate surface area.

A fast small drill through the holding bolt edge (blue), and a pin, punched, would also work.
So would e.g. blind pop rivets.

Press-fit barrels would definitely work.
Both for holding them, and the ends pressed in.
They need precise holes for press-fit purposes.
Think reamed to 0.01 mm in D, more or less.

Typical std reamer accuracy (0.01 mm in smallish D), easy to do, cheap, fast.

Custom barrels are probably much cheaper than anything like that from mcmaster in qty 3000 units.

Typically, mcmaster/misumi/etc cost 1-2-3$ for engineered units of any precision.
Industrial epoxy will likely cost 1$/unit, +/-, in small quantities.
Total 4$, or so, qty 3k total.
Plus lots of work in assy, several $ each. You cannot assemble 60 per hour.

You could get 3000 units of barrels and fitments and an assy jig (pop/rivet/pin) made by any jobshop for around 10k$.
And maybe a drill-jig to make the forks yourself.

[hanermo2]

Further, drill-rod as barrel, drilled and reamed and a secondary drill-rod as the endcap pressfit would likely cost about 2$/unit qty 3000.
Advanced lathes run 250$/hr and should put out 240-300 pieces / hr.

This would be a dead-easy job where lower unit costs are available.

[JEK5019]

A peen, aka pin punch on one corner of the flat blue bolt flat area will mostly lock it in place.
This can be done in an inside-supporting fixture, think fork, avoiding distorting the U shaped hold.

Any industrial epoxy will fix the blue bolt, depending on load and the size of the end plate surface area.

A fast small drill through the holding bolt edge (blue), and a pin, punched, would also work.
So would e.g. blind pop rivets.

Press-fit barrels would definitely work.
Both for holding them, and the ends pressed in.
They need precise holes for press-fit purposes.
Think reamed to 0.01 mm in D, more or less.

Typical std reamer accuracy (0.01 mm in smallish D), easy to do, cheap, fast.

Custom barrels are probably much cheaper than anything like that from mcmaster in qty 3000 units.

Typically, mcmaster/misumi/etc cost 1-2-3$ for engineered units of any precision.
Industrial epoxy will likely cost 1$/unit, +/-, in small quantities.
Total 4$, or so, qty 3k total.
Plus lots of work in assy, several $ each. You cannot assemble 60 per hour.

You could get 3000 units of barrels and fitments and an assy jig (pop/rivet/pin) made by any jobshop for around 10k$.
And maybe a drill-jig to make the forks yourself.

i totally missed this post - terribly sorry about that!

very invaluable information here on the process. additionally, if you don't mind - i would like to contact you via message.