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15-07-2019 #19
It seems I have messed up my explanation here. I do not plan on using four rails, but instead three. Two linear HIWIN-style rails on one side, mounted atop each other. The other side only has one rail, and a different type, namely the cylindrical Igus-Style rails that you also often find in 3D printers, like the Prusa MK3. That will still take some work aligning, I get that, but it should technically work to help let the machine compensate. I know, technically is a nice word, but practically often takes precedent :D I have added another picture, with the HIWIN rails in their place, to hopefully make that more clear.
This one's along the same vein, and it honestly also seems off in my head, but the math should check out there. Ultimately, the sideplates don't cost much to make, especially not the smaller one on the left, so if it turns out to be a problem, I can change it around without much of a problem.
Something like that came up when talking to my colleagues as well, today. We came up with inserting angles to hold up the sides, which could be removed if needed, but when there, would make it a bit stiffer. I really quickly added one in the picture above, highlighted in pink. Imagine four of those in the corners.
Could you maybe elaborate on how an adjustable Height bed and that "overhang" would work? I have a hard time imagining those two.
Good shout! On the first look, I should be able to do a similar thing, but with removing the screws of the Z-Ballscrew Bearing Blocks instead, but I will definitely check that again.
I have enough space between the screw and the profiles, to be able to insert some angles to bolt them together (that is going to be some fun fiddling with angled hex drivers, however :D) and I can also bolt them together on the back side as well. With the sled in front, forming a closed frame and additional bolts in the side-plates, that should be enough then, right?
With that much of a recommendation, I will definitely take another look. But I must admit, the price of the units, especially compared to the other controllers is quite steep. I might just stick with one of the cheaper ones and maybe upgrade later on. I am managing to stick within my initially laid out budget for now, but I want to also reserve a buffer in that, so that a problem won't throw me off course completely.
Yeah, that was my thought. My 3D printer uses a proximity switch for leveling, and needs exactly that adjustment, which also means that it can be calibrated pretty finely.
Don't worry, no rush :D I am pretty sure I have suitable Y- and Z- Motors, but the X-Stepper is what I am still fiddling with the spreadsheet for. My main problem is how to calculate the thing driving two ballscrews at the same time. I just added a multiplication by 2 in the part of the equation that contains the Screw Inertia.
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