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  1. #1
    Quote Originally Posted by Kitwn View Post

    Now I'm even more confused, but it shows there's more to this than pouring in some green stuff.

    Kit
    Good grief man, you can't use the green stuff, Gotta be blue or red G13 at least. Failing that, how about VW Beetle antifreeze

    Personally, I gave it up when they stopped the methanol based stuff.

    Cheers !

    Rob-T

  2. #2
    Well it used to be green! That's only the fluorescein dye anyway. I Think the last time I actually bought anti-freeze in a shop Mrs Thatcher was still PM. I'd had enough of grovelling about under cars at the side of the road by then and vowed that as soon as I could afford it I was going to pay someone else to service my car. I would, of course, now purchase the latest safety approved product from a reputable Australian supplier.

    Kit
    An optimist says the glass is half full, a pessimist says the glass is half empty, an engineer says you're using the wrong sized glass.

  3. #3
    Any good quality Ethylene Glycol based anti-freeze has corrosion inhibitors which will work well in a system which includes Iron, Steel, Aluminium, and/or Brass, use De-Ionised water too to avoid any chance of impurities building up inside the spindle.
    You think that's too expensive? You're not a Model Engineer are you? :D

  4. #4
    I'm afraid Ethylene Glycol is out due the risk of poisoning the dogs if I get a leak and they lick it up. I'm tempted but my wife would never forgive me! The Proylene Glycol version is OK so I'm going to head for our local Auto-Pro and read the labels very carefully.

    I obviously don't need the anti-freeze/anti-boiling properties of the stuff but some corosion inhibiters might be nice. I am also concerned about algae growing in the water. It doesn't get hot enough to kill the stuff but the ambient temperture here is perfect for it. If I don't find a suitable anti-freeze I might just go for adding a little chlorine based bleach (NOT the 'oxygen' stuff). A little further reading on Wikipedia sugests that a weak solution of 200ppm Sodium Hypochlorite will be strong enough for bug killing but won't attack the metals. Standard household bleach is about 5% (50,000ppm) so a couple of tablespoons of bleach in 10l of distilled water should do the trick.

    Thanks for all the comments from everyone so far, this has prompted some interesting reading.

    Kit
    An optimist says the glass is half full, a pessimist says the glass is half empty, an engineer says you're using the wrong sized glass.

  5. #5
    You should be aware that Sodium Hypochlorite is somewhat alkaline in solution and hence will attack aluminium a bit. Should be OK on plastics and stainless steel though. Alternatively once the bleach is dissolved you could add a little acid to compensate - you should then have an essentially neutral solution containing some chlorine - how soon this would diffuse out through the piping though I don't know.
    Last edited by Voicecoil; 22-05-2019 at 09:43 PM.

  6. #6
    If all you are looking at is corrosion inhibition, how about something like Fernox - used in central heating. I haven't researched it, this is just tossing an idea into the pot.

  7. #7
    RobC's Avatar
    Lives in Leeds, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 12-05-2024 Has been a member for 6-7 years. Has a total post count of 118. Received thanks 16 times, giving thanks to others 21 times.
    I used a pond pump too but found it rather noisy and with it being directly mains powered couldn't easily control it from my panel. I then went to a 24v self priming pump and that way I just control it via a normal toggle switch when required as the temperature reaches a certain temp.

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by cropwell View Post
    If all you are looking at is corrosion inhibition, how about something like Fernox - used in central heating. I haven't researched it, this is just tossing an idea into the pot.
    An excellent suggestion, used with DI water that should cover all the bases, don't use bleach, if you need an anti-biological it needs to be PH neutral, but you could run your coolant through a pond/aquarium UV unit on it's return to the tank to keep the biological load to a minimum or you could have a submersible UV unit in the tank.
    You think that's too expensive? You're not a Model Engineer are you? :D

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