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  1. #1
    Kitwn's Avatar
    Lives in Don, Tasmania, Australia. Last Activity: 13 Hours Ago Has been a member for 7-8 years. Has a total post count of 984. Received thanks 118 times, giving thanks to others 52 times.
    I'm afraid Ethylene Glycol is out due the risk of poisoning the dogs if I get a leak and they lick it up. I'm tempted but my wife would never forgive me! The Proylene Glycol version is OK so I'm going to head for our local Auto-Pro and read the labels very carefully.

    I obviously don't need the anti-freeze/anti-boiling properties of the stuff but some corosion inhibiters might be nice. I am also concerned about algae growing in the water. It doesn't get hot enough to kill the stuff but the ambient temperture here is perfect for it. If I don't find a suitable anti-freeze I might just go for adding a little chlorine based bleach (NOT the 'oxygen' stuff). A little further reading on Wikipedia sugests that a weak solution of 200ppm Sodium Hypochlorite will be strong enough for bug killing but won't attack the metals. Standard household bleach is about 5% (50,000ppm) so a couple of tablespoons of bleach in 10l of distilled water should do the trick.

    Thanks for all the comments from everyone so far, this has prompted some interesting reading.

    Kit
    An optimist says the glass is half full, a pessimist says the glass is half empty, an engineer says you're using the wrong sized glass.

  2. #2
    You should be aware that Sodium Hypochlorite is somewhat alkaline in solution and hence will attack aluminium a bit. Should be OK on plastics and stainless steel though. Alternatively once the bleach is dissolved you could add a little acid to compensate - you should then have an essentially neutral solution containing some chlorine - how soon this would diffuse out through the piping though I don't know.
    Last edited by Voicecoil; 22-05-2019 at 09:43 PM.

  3. #3
    If all you are looking at is corrosion inhibition, how about something like Fernox - used in central heating. I haven't researched it, this is just tossing an idea into the pot.

  4. #4
    RobC's Avatar
    Lives in Leeds, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 12-05-2024 Has been a member for 7-8 years. Has a total post count of 118. Received thanks 16 times, giving thanks to others 21 times.
    I used a pond pump too but found it rather noisy and with it being directly mains powered couldn't easily control it from my panel. I then went to a 24v self priming pump and that way I just control it via a normal toggle switch when required as the temperature reaches a certain temp.

  5. #5
    When I get round to my build, I have acquired a second hand 24v pump, fan and radiator (120mm) and a perspex header tank, so I plan to mount it all directly on the machine. I have some NC 40degC thermal switches, so one of those will go on the spindle.

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by cropwell View Post
    When I get round to my build, I have acquired a second hand 24v pump, fan and radiator (120mm) and a perspex header tank, so I plan to mount it all directly on the machine. I have some NC 40degC thermal switches, so one of those will go on the spindle.
    Something like

    Click image for larger version. 

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    ?

    I'd keep it simple. The fan and pump are near silent (the rest state of the steppers is noisier).

    I never cut for long - probably 30 mins max - but there're no thermal issues at 2.2kW.

    Standard car coolant - that's been in there for a few years now.
    Last edited by Doddy; 23-05-2019 at 07:23 AM.

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by Doddy View Post
    Something like ?
    Yes, exactly like.

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by cropwell View Post
    If all you are looking at is corrosion inhibition, how about something like Fernox - used in central heating. I haven't researched it, this is just tossing an idea into the pot.
    An excellent suggestion, used with DI water that should cover all the bases, don't use bleach, if you need an anti-biological it needs to be PH neutral, but you could run your coolant through a pond/aquarium UV unit on it's return to the tank to keep the biological load to a minimum or you could have a submersible UV unit in the tank.
    You think that's too expensive? You're not a Model Engineer are you? :D

  9. #9
    Kitwn's Avatar
    Lives in Don, Tasmania, Australia. Last Activity: 13 Hours Ago Has been a member for 7-8 years. Has a total post count of 984. Received thanks 118 times, giving thanks to others 52 times.
    Some good ideas there, thanks everyone. Re using bleach: the body of the spindle is aluminium so there is a risk there, though Wikipedia says it'a not corrosive at 200ppm hence the limit of concentration there. At the moment I'm still using plain old distilled water with no signs of an ominous green tinge.

    Re the use of switches, thermostats etc for turning pumps on and of: my 240v pond pump is quieter than the VFD fan so I simply have it on the same mains supply switch. If the VFD is on, the pump is on. After a long cut yesterday for levelling the machine bed I found the tool and spindle shaft quite warm. I turned the pump off and the lower body of the spindle warmed up noticably so I turned the pump back on and it cooled almost immediately. This makes me more certain (as I said in the other recent thread about switching pumps on and off) that leaving the cooling on continuously during a working session will help cool the spindle faster after one cut and so reduce the starting temperature for the next. And it's simpler to implement. KISS!

    Kit
    An optimist says the glass is half full, a pessimist says the glass is half empty, an engineer says you're using the wrong sized glass.

  10. #10
    Again, an off the wall suggestion, to inhibit algal growth how about a phenol based disinfectant, like Jeyes Fluid ? I do not know the pH properties of it though. You certainly would not need much.

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