Newbie from NZ

[rjsutton]

Doddy
Thanks for that
The $ cost of the motors etc is not a problem. But if these won’t work then I will be in another place
Appreciate any help in program and wiring diagrams. Any of your guys knowledge I can glean then that is a 100% more than I started with
Thanks
Richard

B


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Doddy]

Doddy
Thanks for that
The $ cost of the motors etc is not a problem. But if these won’t work then I will be in another place

For clarity, I’m not convinced that these motors are big enough. I think they will be operating at their max power rating to get close to what you want, but then you’re only looking to run for 20 seconds at a time under load. This is why I say you’re in the land of practical experimentation

[rjsutton]

Doddy and All
Mate the next thing ive found is
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3290...chweb201603_55

they reckon ( i think ) that @ 220rpm then torque is 24.25 kg.cm is this 2.4NM ?
alot more expensive but will see if i can source a cheaper supplier $NZ -$US not very good exchange ( thanks Trump)

I hope i could put an encoder somewhere ( can it go on the end of the ballscrew?)
Richard

[Doddy]

I’m not going to comment on the motor choice other than to say it looks much closer to the numbers that Andy suggested. I’m guessing the rating is more appropriate for continuous rating than peak (a good thing)

To answer your question: you essentially want to add an encoder to the gearbox output, either directly or on either end of the ball screw.

You will always want a “home” microswitch close to the home position for the mechanism to reset/calibrate the closed position... that allows you to include soft stops on the traverses by predicting position.

[rjsutton]

Thanks
Can You "suggest " an encoder and controller setup that would do what you mention. Im not sure where (or How) a Home microswitch would be wired into the circuit to reset-recalibrate.
If not too much bother could you please give me a diag (or lead me to where i would find one) with the encoder wire and microswitch.
I do think those chinese motors would not work as they just too small. I don't want to WASTE time and money . I will have to shorten the ballscrew slightly to fit the wider gearbox in as well

Andy if your still around do you think the new motor link above will be better choice of power for the ballscrew ?

[Doddy]

Thanks
Can You "suggest " an encoder and controller setup that would do what you mention. Im not sure where (or How) a Home microswitch would be wired into the circuit to reset-recalibrate.
If not too much bother could you please give me a diag (or lead me to where i would find one) with the encoder wire and microswitch.
I do think those chinese motors would not work as they just too small. I don't want to WASTE time and money . I will have to shorten the ballscrew slightly to fit the wider gearbox in as well

Andy if your still around do you think the new motor link above will be better choice of power for the ballscrew ?

I'm "thinking" that you're looking for an off-the-shelf solution, and there are such things readily available. For example.

https://www.amazon.com/uniquegoods-W...gateway&sr=8-1

All you need are two limit switches. The instruction manual (linked at the bottom of the page on Amazon) shows how to attach two NPN proximity switches (https://www.amazon.com/Twidec-Induct...s%2C204&sr=8-7 and from the photo that you provided in post 12, I'd simply drill two holes in the side-wall an inch or so above the moving sled, one at each end of travel, and fit the proximity sensors there; Add a short piece of angle steel attached to the bolts on the linear blocks (you show 8 bolts in the image) to project up to provide a moving vane to actuate the proximity sensors when the sled is in the two end positions.

Job done.

[rjsutton]

cool
so i wouldnt need an encoder to check the revs moved if i just use the gear you show above?
bloody marvelous if thats the case ( can you please confirm my reasoning )
ive just ordered

https://www.ebay.com/itm/120W-High-T...97.m4902.l9144

with a ratio of 1:7.5 which should give me 3.21 NM as far as i can see
its a 120w motor so will be heaps better than the little ones
I hope im reading everything as i should be.
appreciate all your help.
Richard

[rjsutton]

Mate
looking at the install instructions
there's a "manual control" bit
i would use this instead of the wireless. Im not sure what type of switches etc or how it would work
assume simple off -on switch but what do 2 switches do
1 would turn motor on? below is chinese words in manual

Manual switch control Connect two manual switches.
Turn on the power,motor remotes on the corresponding direction.
When reach the limit switch,motor stops
.In manual working process,the remote controller is invalid

understand when use manual the remote doesnt work . Good because i want it all hard wired Not remote.
turn on power motor remotes on the cor.. direction... WHAT?
what is second switch for ?? im not very good with this wiring stuff
If i had a hand controller with 2 buttons ( 1 forward -1 reverse 12vdc operation) could these "buttons" be used to SWITCH thru the manual port and would a mere press ( not holding) keep the circuit going till the sensor stopped it? then press button 2 to reverse?

If you dont know this than totaly understand
i can try a different forum
cheers

One more quick thing please
the speed controller with reversable limit switch link you gave me
Im trying to find a similar piece of gear that would control another motor with 2 sensors ( 1 each end of travel) that onced reached would reverse direction
Sam as the larger one but dont need wifi etc just basic that can take the proximity switches. Have googled but nothing seems to have 6 connectors for the 2 sensors. plenty with speed and revers SWITCH but not for proximity . Anyway any help appreciated on this search

[rjsutton]

I'm "thinking" that you're looking for an off-the-shelf solution, and there are such things readily available. For example.

https://www.amazon.com/uniquegoods-W...gateway&sr=8-1

All you need are two limit switches. The instruction manual (linked at the bottom of the page on Amazon) shows how to attach two NPN proximity switches (https://www.amazon.com/Twidec-Induct...s%2C204&sr=8-7 and from the photo that you provided in post 12, I'd simply drill two holes in the side-wall an inch or so above the moving sled, one at each end of travel, and fit the proximity sensors there; Add a short piece of angle steel attached to the bolts on the linear blocks (you show 8 bolts in the image) to project up to provide a moving vane to actuate the proximity sensors when the sled is in the two end positions.

Job done.

Doddy
can you please help
ive installed 3 of the uniquegoods 30 amp controllers with npn switches each end
all works 100% BUT i want to get rid of the remotes and use a simple push button hand controller
ive wired this into the manual switch but i can only get it to work by using only 2 of the 4 wires. i think im grounding the circuit so infact closing the switch. trouble as soon as i release the button the motor stops ( with remote it stays ngaged until it hits the npn switch. is there a quick fix to turn this bit into a stay on system so when release the BUTTON it keeps moving until it hits the end then it reverses the direction. As said it works NOW with the remote as one press keeps it moving. Do i need to wire the handpiece differently or use the 2 other wires in the manual bit. ( says that using the manual makes the remote redundant but it doesnt do this . Any help cheers Richard