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  1. #11
    Core drill?, step drill for sure, or metal punches (bought second-hand sets for IEC and XLR plugs/sockets)

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  3. #12
    m_c's Avatar
    Lives in East Lothian, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 11 Hours Ago Forum Superstar, has done so much to help others, they deserve a medal. Has a total post count of 2,957. Received thanks 366 times, giving thanks to others 8 times.
    My preference is 2.5-3mm aluminium for backing plates, as it just makes drilling/tapping far easier for mounting things on to.

    Core drill, or good quality hole saws for making smaller holes.
    Plasma cutter, or drill and jigsaw with metal blade for cutting cooling fan holes.

    And regardless of how well you plan things out, you're pretty much guaranteed to miss a hole for something
    Avoiding the rubbish customer service from AluminiumWarehouse since July '13.

  4. #13
    +1 for ali backing plate..... not just easier to drill (especially "emergency" holes! ) but can be useful for heatsinking drivers, rectifiers and braking resistors etc. I successfully cut 60/75mm holes for fans in the steel enclosure walls using a hole saw on a competent pillar drill - patience + cutting fluid helped a lot

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  6. #14
    It is not hard to drill and tap the holes in the back plate. The cutouts in the gland plate i usually machine....but i guess it depends on your router.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by ericks; 21-12-2019 at 03:39 PM.

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  8. #15
    Muzzer's Avatar
    Lives in Lytham St. Annes, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 20 Hours Ago Has been a member for 7-8 years. Has a total post count of 449. Received thanks 70 times, giving thanks to others 15 times.
    It's tempting to try to use the smallest enclosure you can, to make for a neat system. But when it comes to connecting up all the external connections, life gets very difficult if you haven't got easy access to the terminals etc. Lots of effing and blinding. Better to make it bigger than smaller.

    I constructed each of my controllers on a baseplate on the bench, as wired up as I could manage, then fitted them into their cabinets and connected them up to the external cables. I used those rivnut threaded inserts (widely available) for fastening down the big stuff and drilled and tapped a couple of late entries(!) after the event for the ones i'd not thought of.

    Don't forget ventilation holes (swarf proof!) and fan(s). I use a central heating thermostat to control the fans, to turn them on only when needed.

    I used screened cables for all the external wiring and grounded the braided shields to a common point (the cabinets have copper plated studs for electrical safety grounding) to avoid noise issues. I have my inverters inside their cabinets and haven't had any noise issues.

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  10. #16
    Thanks Muzzer. I ended up ordering a 600 x 600 x 300mm enclosure. I will wire it up on a back plate and then install it into the enclosure as you suggested. I have thrown things together on a 600mm square piece of ply at the moment just to test how to wire the electrical bits (and to finally see an axis moving).
    Click image for larger version. 

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  11. #17
    That photograph looks like a blatant rip-off of the insides of my control box!
    An optimist says the glass is half full, a pessimist says the glass is half empty, an engineer says you're using the wrong sized glass.

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  13. #18
    Quote Originally Posted by Kitwn View Post
    That photograph looks like a blatant rip-off of the insides of my control box!
    Looks like a standard reference design to me :-)

    I really need to tidy my lathe conversion up before I post any pics

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  15. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by chillybo View Post
    Thanks guys, think I'm going with this one.
    https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CMSB606030.html
    Will I need some sort of backplate to mount the DIN rail onto?
    I use these cases and they come with back plate.

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