Thread: Control enclosure size
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18-12-2019 #1
Hello everyone,
I want to order a control enclosure and I have a 800 x 600 x 300 mm size in mind for my 3 to maybe 4 axis (in the future) router. My question is will this be large enough and what sort of size enclosure do others use that have similar machines requiring similar electronics.
Regards Chris
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The Following User Says Thank You to Clive S For This Useful Post:
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18-12-2019 #3
I'd always go as big as practical!
Best option is to find sizes of all the key parts you'd like to use, then do a quick mock-up.
My tip would be to leave plenty room around components to run some cable trunking.Avoiding the rubbish customer service from AluminiumWarehouse since July '13.
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The Following User Says Thank You to m_c For This Useful Post:
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19-12-2019 #4
I used the largest old PC case I had lying around in the shed. But then I'm an incorrigible cheapskate!
An optimist says the glass is half full, a pessimist says the glass is half empty, an engineer says you're using the wrong sized glass.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Kitwn For This Useful Post:
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19-12-2019 #5
I use 500 x 600 x 200. There are 5 x DM860's and a VFD plus the other stuff :)
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The Following User Says Thank You to ericks For This Useful Post:
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19-12-2019 #6
All good suggestions, I've just thrown one control box out that was home-made/formed from sheet steel - to the limits of my bender (90mm). That was not deep enough when I replaced my baby drivers with slightly larger drivers (TB6600s?, can't remember and not close enough to check) I wouldn't recommend any cabinet less that 200mm depth.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Doddy For This Useful Post:
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19-12-2019 #7
I'd go along with the "it's never big enough" idea. Do a dummy layout of the bits going in there, work out what you need to house them, then go a size or two bigger. Otherwise, wiring the thing is going to be like keyhole surgery. Cable trunking as mentioned above is useful but takes more space (and I wouldn't wire another control cabinet without it) and I used a fair bit of DIN rail for mounting things along with a lot of DIN rail terminals. Also consider using crimp-on cable terminations - the little ferrule things - which are cheap enough from China and make wiring much easier and reliable with less chance of odd stray strands causing shorts.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Neale For This Useful Post:
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19-12-2019 #8
Thanks guys, think I'm going with this one.
https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CMSB606030.html
Will I need some sort of backplate to mount the DIN rail onto?
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19-12-2019 #9
Looks to me as if there is a backplate as part of the package - the "2mm galvanised steel mounting panel" item. Does make it easier to get everything fixed before bolting into the cabinet.
Have you sorted out what you are going to do about external connectors for motors, limit switches, etc? Best if you can drill for those before getting swarf in all the electrics! Guess how I know...
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The Following User Says Thank You to Neale For This Useful Post:
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19-12-2019 #10
Good point Neale. I followed an excellent build log you tube instalment that shows how tough the steel is to to core drill into. I will try to plan it all out beforehand.
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