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27-01-2020 #1
neoMorph,
I've made a few DIY surface-mount circuit boards but 1206 is my stock size for resistors and 0.05" pitch for chips so I'm sticking Stone Henge monoliths together by your standards.An optimist says the glass is half full, a pessimist says the glass is half empty, an engineer says you're using the wrong sized glass.
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27-01-2020 #2
It’s easy enough to solder 0603 with practice but I prefer to stick to 0805. I tend to buy my surface mount parts in sample books and top up when I use them. Helps keep track of the tiny suckers lol.
Regarding the plug, if it’s the type I think then I already have several in my current CNC build. Even have some 7 pin ones. Those are hard.
Is it these ones?
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27-01-2020 #3
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27-01-2020 #4
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27-01-2020 #5
As far as noise is concerned, the VFD has a fan which is noticeable in my workshop but not intrusive. The actual spindle is quiet enough that I'm happy to stand next to it when it's running. However, once it starts cutting then the noise makes me put on ear defenders!
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27-01-2020 #6
I always have difficulty judging sizes from pictures. Usually have to get my callipers out.
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27-01-2020 #7
They look like GX16?
The spindle will take a GX20.
I've been soldering lots of 7-pin GX16s and 4-pin GX20s this weekend.
Tip number 1: Get someone to help hold stuff. Failing that, grab a vise or something. And like ten of those helping hands things.
My technique (who knows if its good, but it seems to work). Tin the wires. Prep the pin with a decent amount of solder. Then flow it whilst simultaneously heating the wire, and bring the two together asap. Reflow once you're happy its in a good place to avoid a cold joint. Can be a real PITA when you're dealing with very short cable ends to keep it looking tidy.
Oh and DON'T forget to put everything on the right side of the damn panel. Spot the error below...
Last edited by AndyUK; 27-01-2020 at 07:32 PM.
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27-01-2020 #8
The vice is a must. If you put a socket (plug) in the vice and plug in the plug (socket) you're soldering then the socket (plug) will support the pins in place and help avoid distortion through overheating the plastic, though if you're as quick as you should be this won't be a problem. You're using the same method I do, just keep everything clean before tinning, don't twist the wires with sweaty fingers and clean the iron on a sponge between each application. Don't try using a gob of solder that's been sitting on the iron for a while. Sleeving over each pin will prevent shorts between pins or pins and the case.
An optimist says the glass is half full, a pessimist says the glass is half empty, an engineer says you're using the wrong sized glass.
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28-01-2020 #9
I’ve got half a dozen or so helping hands that I use. Some are missing arms, some have been modded with mounts for plugs to be held without distortion. I usually make them out of wood as it doesn’t transfer the heat into the plastic that way.
Same goes for PCB holders. I used to lust after a decent pana-vice but they are crazy expensive for what they are. If you are any good at putting together a CNC then you could make a better one.
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01-02-2020 #10
Hi again, I've been somewhat occupied with work lately, hence, the radio silence. I've got offers on nearly all main components and the intended design seems to be within budget. One loose end is the aluminium plates which I'll have to have made for me and to that end I wanted to ask a practical question (as I have very limited experience working with metals); what tolerances do you use on screw holes? More specifically, I'll probably end up using a combination of M5, M6 and M12 screws and 20mm aluminium plates.
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