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31-01-2020 #1
If you use 80x80x3mm or 100x100x3 / better IMO/ then there will be no need for bracing and triangulation which will simplify greatly the build.
Even 60x60 a bit thicker or properly spaced is ok but i prefer the above for simplicity. Avoid triangulation for simplicity's sake.
There are many designs but the design that Dean shows above is my favourite for a DIY router. Especially due to the fact that is more dust and liquid resistant than any other. Plus easier to achieve high precision than others. And most people here even do it so you could move bed up and down.
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01-02-2020 #2
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01-02-2020 #3
Not at all. The bed will offer very little stiffness if the rest of the frame isn't good enough. The frame is the foundation and like any structure, it will fail if the foundations are poor.
The key is to try and lower vibrations so triangulation and bracing should be used with this goal in mind.
I would also hold off on the Aluminium bed unless you are really sure that it will be needed because you'll probably find it's covered most of the time with a Spoil board of some kind so not to cut into it, usually MDF. An aluminum T-slot type or even a Matrix of holes type bed can become an expensive base that isn't required for most wood routers as you'll often be screwing parts down into waste material or screwing clamps etc into areas that you couldn't reach with a T-slot type aluminum bed.
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