Aluminium Profile Type Router - Initial questions

[Clive S]

I'm also thinking about trying some aluminium and wondering do I need a mister, or at least air blast to do anything more than minimal work in aluminium? Or would the dust collection remove chips enough?
I have one of these basic eBay misters https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/f..._Collar_02.png but no compressor yet as most things I read suggest you need a fairly decent tank size to prevent overheating.
I also looked at silent "dentist type" however the price goes up a fair amount!
Any advice from those who have "been there and tried that" :)

Different grades of alli will cut differently. 6082T is generally ok or 7 series and cast alli . just spay a bit of WD40 or equivalent helps but if you get the feeds and speeds correct it will cut fine.

[CNCRY]

I have some parts I'd eventually like to make which would involve cutting out/slotting 25mm or so deep. Would a small compressor assist at least , even if it ends up filling the tank 50% of the time, but is quiet when it does it !
Something like https://www.lawnandpower.co.uk/produ...xoC-hwQAvD_BwE

I'll do some experimenting soon !

[Doddy]

I had a Peak Scientific compressor - around 25l, dentist job, silent as anything, and pretty useless for mist-cooling. With a low CFM and a small tank, it exhausted quickly, even just with a hand-help airgun where I could regulate things myself. The main problem was the low duty-cycle for the motor - after an hour cutting, and cooling, the compressor would overheat and cut-off until it cooled... that's when the WD40 would come out and smoke-out the shed.

Here's a hint: Unfortunate, but true, there's an awful lot of pubs going to the wall. I recently found a 50l (not much bigger), but similarly silent and 100% duty cycle compressor from a clearance of a brewery that had gone down the swanny. I'm not proud of taking advantage, but 40 quid later and I'm giving the old compressor away. Keep an eye on the auctions.

[CNCRY]

Been busy this week sorting out a ply threaded board, used 75mm spacing as suggested rather then 100+
I then have a second piece of MDF on top with holes but its not glued, just bolted down at various points currently.
The M8 bolt fixing is working pretty well, using simply bolts and washers to clamp the edge, however without gluing the MDF spoil board I can't surface it accurately which is an issue, just wondering if there is a better alternative to gluing ... screwing with slightly countersunk holes?

So much to learn about fusion 360 CAM still - managed to make my first aluminium part! Simple pocket toolpath and cutout, but I was pretty happy with the finish, not that I have much to compare to, just it did it first time with no issues.
Couple of sprays of WD-40 but used 17,500rpm with 1mm DOC, 6mm 2 flute end mill.

It's a um... coaster?



May give the Aztec calendar a go Jazz , is there any specific high quality STL file you have for fusion 360 - as a few various ones out there I've found?

Also, does anyone have any suggestions for the best way to face a surface that fits in an ER-20 collet? I've seen flycutters etc mentioned but most are too large - any recommendations?

Ryan

[CNCRY]

Hi everyone,

After a couple of months with minimal time to spend on the CNC, finally getting back into it. Learnt lots but still much more to learn, as is always the way..

So one thing I hadn't fully thought out in the design is how to grease the Z bearing blocks. The nipples are in the right place (must avoid obvious jokes here..) but the grease gun "Nozzle" wont fit in the space to engage properly.

So I'm thinking of using the side inlets - only recently realised that was possible.
Hiwin say you should carefully pierce the side inlet with a hot metal rod to avoid chips in the bearings. Do you then have to insert a new grease nipple (can't see a thread) or is there a different type of nozzle available you can just pressure fit and fire in the grease. I can't have a permanent fixing as it would hit the side plate.



Thanks
Ryan

[NordicCnc]

Hi everyone,

After a couple of months with minimal time to spend on the CNC, finally getting back into it. Learnt lots but still much more to learn, as is always the way..

So one thing I hadn't fully thought out in the design is how to grease the Z bearing blocks. The nipples are in the right place (must avoid obvious jokes here..) but the grease gun "Nozzle" wont fit in the space to engage properly.

So I'm thinking of using the side inlets - only recently realised that was possible.
Hiwin say you should carefully pierce the side inlet with a hot metal rod to avoid chips in the bearings. Do you then have to insert a new grease nipple (can't see a thread) or is there a different type of nozzle available you can just pressure fit and fire in the grease. I can't have a permanent fixing as it would hit the side plate.



Thanks
Ryan

Did you manage to solve the greasing issue?

Skickat från min SM-A530F via Tapatalk

[JonnyFive]

Is that finish on the edge of your plates waterjet or laser cut? Been considering those as a cheaper option for getting mine cut but I’d like the edges to be all nice and smooth.

Cracking machine by the way, well done getting it all up and running so quick!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Neale]

Take a look at the very bottom of the screen.

[CNCRY]

Thanks Kered - sounds like a cost saving option, although I'm not sure I'd trust myself with self made high pressure tanks. Maybe one to add to the list to try:)
I've been spending most of my time on wood recently so not progressed the mist coolant plan at all as yet!
Top of my list for improvements/purchases now are

- handheld wireless controller for UCCNC (as sticking the laptop on the bandsaw table while I set part zero isn't ideal)
- Improve the table/spoilboard combination.

Currently I have a sheet of 12mm ply on top of the base's cross pieces which is drilled and inserted T nuts. Problem is sometimes they drop out the bottom as the bolt knocks them out when trying to fix something , which is a pain. Plus 12mm ply isn't the most stable material.

Current options - either some aluminum T-slot, steel t-slot , pre drilled and tapped steel grid plate or buy a sheet of aluminum then surface and use the machine to "drill" a grid of holes.
I don't have much Z height so needs to be <20mm maximum.

Anyone tried these or have any comments?

Thanks!

[JAZZCNC]

Top of my list for improvements/purchases now are

- handheld wireless controller for UCCNC (as sticking the laptop on the bandsaw table while I set part zero isn't ideal)

When your ready get in touch as I'm now stocking Controllers etc from CncDrive and have just got one of the UCR201 wireless controllers to test and I can tell you it's an amazing bit of kit. One of the best I've ever used.

Currently I have a sheet of 12mm ply on top of the base's cross pieces which is drilled and inserted T nuts. Problem is sometimes they drop out the bottom as the bolt knocks them out when trying to fix something , which is a pain. Plus 12mm ply isn't the most stable material.

Current options - either some aluminum T-slot, steel t-slot , pre drilled and tapped steel grid plate or buy a sheet of aluminum then surface and use the machine to "drill" a grid of holes.
I don't have much Z height so needs to be <20mm maximum.

Anyone tried these or have any comments?

Thanks!

I've used just about every method and my personal favorite by a long way is the Matrix grid of tapped holes. It gives the most flexibility and if combined with a few strips of T-slot in strategic places there's not much you can't hold.

I wouldn't buy a rolled plate and surface it thou as it releases stress and moves around, ground cast tooling plate is much better and doesn't move around when you drill/tap it.