Aluminium Profile Type Router - Initial questions

[JAZZCNC]

From what I understand a limit and home can be the same physical switch.
So I'd expect you need a limit on each end of X axis, with one end doubling as a home. Then the same on Y, and Z can have a single switch passed on upper and lower limit, and say upper can be home.
So not sure why people mention 2 X's being used - surely both limits are at the same point as the 2 X axis are parallel?

Ok well regards the X-axis having 2 switches this only applies if you are using twin screws, one side will have a switch that works for limits and home, the other side as a switch just for home. Reason being you home each side independently to square up the gantry. But you only need a limit on one side.

Now regards having a switch at each end then there's another way, which IMO is the best way and uses just one switch on each axis.
You place the switch on the moving part ie: Gantry and Y axis which then looks for a target at each end of travel. The Z-axis just uses a fixed switch at the top of travel which looks for the target on the moving part.
This means you have less switches and less wiring to go wrong.This can be done with either proximity or Microswitch type's.

[CNCRY]

Ok well regards the X-axis having 2 switches this only applies if you are using twin screws, one side will have a switch that works for limits and home, the other side as a switch just for home. Reason being you home each side independently to square up the gantry. But you only need a limit on one side.

Now regards having a switch at each end then there's another way, which IMO is the best way and uses just one switch on each axis.
You place the switch on the moving part ie: Gantry and Y axis which then looks for a target at each end of travel. The Z-axis just uses a fixed switch at the top of travel which looks for the target on the moving part.
This means you have less switches and less wiring to go wrong.This can be done with either proximity or Microswitch type's.

Hi Jazz - So as I have twin X screws, if I go for the moving option on gantry I just need the single physical switch on each X (one acts as limit/home the other just home) and I have contacts at each end the switch triggers?
Then Y needs only one switch using same setup?

Thanks

[JAZZCNC]

Hi Jazz - So as I have twin X screws, if I go for the moving option on gantry I just need the single physical switch on each X (one acts as limit/home the other just home) and I have contacts at each end the switch triggers?
Then Y needs only one switch using same setup?

Thanks

Yep works exactly as you describe.

[CNCRY]

So I was about to mount my 750VA Toroidal transformer to the cabinet back board with the supplied fixing bolt, metal plate and large rubber washers
e.g this kit > https://airlinktransformers.com/imag...photo1_CM5.JPG
Plan was to drill and tap the metal back plate and secure the bolt into it.
Then I read this - https://diy.stackexchange.com/questi...-metal-chassis
From what I understand the bolt itself plus the top mount plate and chassis can form a C shape around the winding and induct a current. People mention fires and things blowing up which I'd like to avoid!
So now I'm thinking to mount to a phenolic (insulating) sheet so the mounting bolt does not touch the cabinet back plate directly. The transformer also has an earth wire.
Any issues with this, or better suggestion people use?

Thanks

[Clive S]

So I was about to mount my 750VA Toroidal transformer to the cabinet back board with the supplied fixing bolt, metal plate and large rubber washers
e.g this kit > https://airlinktransformers.com/imag...photo1_CM5.JPG
Plan was to drill and tap the metal back plate and secure the bolt into it.
Then I read this - https://diy.stackexchange.com/questi...-metal-chassis
From what I understand the bolt itself plus the top mount plate and chassis can form a C shape around the winding and induct a current. People mention fires and things blowing up which I'd like to avoid!
So now I'm thinking to mount to a phenolic (insulating) sheet so the mounting bolt does not touch the cabinet back plate directly. The transformer also has an earth wire.
Any issues with this, or better suggestion people use?

Thanks

What you MUST NOT do is connect anything to the bolt on the top side that is connected back to the chassis as that would then make a shorted turn. The rubber washers are there to protect the transformer for mechanical damage to the winding.

[JAZZCNC]

So now I'm thinking to mount to a phenolic (insulating) sheet so the mounting bolt does not touch the cabinet back plate directly. The transformer also has an earth wire.
Any issues with this, or better suggestion people use?

I'm going to throw a spanner in the works here and point out that I've built dozens of machines that use the bolt thru chassis method with rubber pads and I've never had any issues with shorts, fires or getting zapped with stray volts/current etc.
Like Clives mentions it's a Big No No earthing to the bolt but other than that then you won't have any issues provided the transformer sits on the rubber pads.

So just get on with it and don't worry is what I'm saying. If you want to put a rubber washer on the bolt then why not for what it costs but I wouldn't mess around with Phenolic boards etc.