Aluminium Profile Type Router - Initial questions

[JAZZCNC]

If these are joined simply by using the side gantry plates and socket head bolts to hold the pieces in contact is that a terrible idea? Could it be enhanced with some strong adhesive between the pieces to compensate. Really wan't to avoid wasting money on the extrusion if I can help it.. Any ideas?

It's not the best of ways but if you bolt the profiles together along there length as well as the ends it should be ok. Obviously, because the slots don't line up you won't be able to use the slots to lock together but you should be able to drill and tap them together from underneath with a few bolts.
Don't use adhesive.!!

For the blocks which will mount to carriages - Is Ecocast type aluminium recommended here? Quite pricey for 50mm thick block so want to be sure it's worth using this.

Cast plate isn't required but the plates must perfectly flat with parallel faces and exactly same thickness on both sides of machine. Rolled plate isn't flat or with parallel faces so unless you machine it flat and parallel then ground plate is your only choice if you want it right. Why 50mm thick.?

Also thinking of what you mentioned Jazz - adjustability. Would slightly oversize holes be the usual way to achieve this?

Try to keep the holes to correct size if possible. Only make oversize if needed.
When I say adjustability I mean don't machine plates with slots etc that lock things together unless the whole machine is built this way and on an accurate machine. Adding plates or brackets that allow adjustability is always a good idea. When making plates etc then adding slots rather than holes can help in some places but depends on machine design.

One of my methods is to use slots to allow adjustabilty then when it's all setup I'll lock it in place using tappered holes and pins.

On electronics - I'm considering Hybrid steppers now, certainly on X due to the dual X motors and potential stalling. Any recommendations on models here?

Wouldn't use anything else. These work well and allow AC or DC with voltages upto 70Vac or 100Vdc. This means you'll get good speed and with 5.5Nm you've plenty of power.
If you go for the lower powered motors just check the drives Max voltage because a lot of them are 50Vdc Max which will limit your speed.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3279...44bf3421SaYv5O

[CNCRY]

It's not the best of ways but if you bolt the profiles together along there length as well as the ends it should be ok. Obviously, because the slots don't line up you won't be able to use the slots to lock together but you should be able to drill and tap them together from underneath with a few bolts.
Don't use adhesive.!!




Cast plate isn't required but the plates must perfectly flat with parallel faces and exactly same thickness on both sides of machine. Rolled plate isn't flat or with parallel faces so unless you machine it flat and parallel then ground plate is your only choice if you want it right. Why 50mm thick.?



Try to keep the holes to correct size if possible. Only make oversize if needed.
When I say adjustability I mean don't machine plates with slots etc that lock things together unless the whole machine is built this way and on an accurate machine. Adding plates or brackets that allow adjustability is always a good idea. When making plates etc then adding slots rather than holes can help in some places but depends on machine design.

One of my methods is to use slots to allow adjustabilty then when it's all setup I'll lock it in place using tappered holes and pins.



Wouldn't use anything else. These work well and allow AC or DC with voltages upto 70Vac or 100Vdc. This means you'll get good speed and with 5.5Nm you've plenty of power.
If you go for the lower powered motors just check the drives Max voltage because a lot of them are 50Vdc Max which will limit your speed.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3279...44bf3421SaYv5O

I did some more thinking on 2 profiles with different spacing - as the 2 do not need to align on the face in the design, I can offset the top piece by 5mm so at least the front slot is in line, then bolt/tap the rear.

OK great - I'l either go for Ecocast or see if I can get it milled. Its 50mm thick as the block is intended to add some Z clearance for the gantry. Without it clearance is only about 100mm, so takes it upto 150mm .



Hybrid Steppers are slightly more reasonable price then I had expected Vs standard steppers. Looks like the LC60H2102 (4.5Nm) and LC60H2112 (4.8Nm) both also support 100VDC with the same LCDA86 Driver, although strangely are twice the price as the 5.5Nm from what I can see!
Would the 5.5Nm be overkill on the Z axis ?
I noticed the 5.5Nm has a 35mm shaft and keyway, which should help with pulley mounting. How does that work with direct coupling though, a keyway and standard shaft coupler?

Thanks

[CNCRY]

700 x 500 x 250mm steel cabinet arrived today from TLC. Very solid and heavy @ 20kg. - hopefully everything will fit in based on previous builds on here! I see Andy had 800x600 which had a little space spare.
While I wait on the linear motion parts from BST - electronics are being planned, really steep learning curve here for me and hoping I can figure it all out with some of your help.
With the LCDA86 driver Jazz recommended, what voltage would be ideal. Its up to 100Vdc and I see a few people have used 68V - so would give some margin but would that be at expense of too much power?
LC60H2112 is listed as 5.6A current, so with 4 motors do I need 22.4A x 68V = 1523VA PSU? Sounds huge.

I'm trying to take each component in turn and map out the connections - first the driver to AXXB-E. Except for ALM I can't figure out which other terminals need to be connected if at all ? For example ENA+, Pend, and the Encoder E* ones.
AXXB manual refers to just Step and Dir.



Edit..Just realised VCC/GND wrong colours on that IMG..

Thanks
Ryan

[AndyUK]

700 x 500 x 250mm steel cabinet arrived today from TLC. Very solid and heavy @ 20kg. - hopefully everything will fit in based on previous builds on here! I see Andy had 800x600 which had a little space spare.

Yeah you'll be fine :) 800x600x300 was overkill. I have no idea how Joe filled 800x800x300.

I'm trying to take each component in turn and map out the connections - first the driver to AXXB-E. Except for ALM I can't figure out which other terminals need to be connected if at all ? For example ENA+, Pend, and the Encoder E* ones.
AXXB manual refers to just Step and Dir.

Good plan. Generally speakings, Step and Dir are the two required ones.

Enable turns the drive output on or off to prevent the motor turning without killing power to the drive, usually when left disconnected the motor is just enabled by default.

Alarm should output a fault signal to the AXXB if something goes wrong. Best to have it connected somehow if you can, but there are a lot of options about exactly how you wire it up. E.g. it could estop the system on fault, or just tell the AXXB to pause.

Pend appears to be 'positioning completion signal', encoder and the motor phases should be the wires from your motor.

[JAZZCNC]

With the LCDA86 driver Jazz recommended, what voltage would be ideal. Its up to 100Vdc and I see a few people have used 68V - so would give some margin but would that be at expense of too much power?
LC60H2112 is listed as 5.6A current, so with 4 motors do I need 22.4A x 68V = 1523VA PSU? Sounds huge.

You don't need 22.4a you only need approx. 60% of total current draw because of how the drives work using PWM etc which I won't get into. Also you'll rarely max out all motors so got little more leigh way in use.
I would use AC and do away with the need to rectify and Caps etc required for DC. This is what I would use with those drives wired AC. Wire the secondaries in parallel and you'll end up with approx. 11a which isn't quite 60% but still more than enough.

https://airlinktransformers.com/prod...ange-cm0750265

I'm trying to take each component in turn and map out the connections - first the driver to AXXB-E. Except for ALM I can't figure out which other terminals need to be connected if at all ? For example ENA+, Pend, and the Encoder E* ones.
AXXB manual refers to just Step and Dir.

Start simple, if your not used to wiring things like this don't try and wire it all in one go it will just blow your mind. Start with basics first and do it in stages.

I would start by setting up the main latching E-stop circuit and getting movement just with Step & Dir. Forget, enables and alarms at first they can be added later.
Next wire in Home/limit switches. This then gives you the basics or a working machine.
Now you can start adding other features like Alarms, enables etc and controlling any external devices using outputs etc like spindle control.

My favourite saying is "Treat it like eating an elephant, one bite at a time."

Edit: With the cabinet don't stress out over this either, concentrate on layout and wire routing , the main thing is to keep low voltage signal wires away from higher voltage wires as much as possible and make sure you use Star grounding. If your using a VFD and thinking to put in cabinet just pay close attention to where the main spindle cable goes, I'd also suggest you don't put it near the main controller.

[CNCRY]

OK so I've listened to the start simple advise and taking each part at a time! So plan is to sort out the cabinet layout, power distribution, e-stop and switches first, then add controller and drives once the machine is actually built.
That way the low(er) cost and less complex items can be fitted now and drivers / controller / home and limits / alarms / faults to be added once the machine is built, and finally VFD and spindle.

I have this for the cabinet layout - does it look OK or any issues?



I'm planning to buy these - could someone confirm they are OK choices, especially the contactor! Looks like it is DC

https://www.rapidonline.com/mean-wel...cy-psu-85-5684
https://www.rapidonline.com/schneide...tactor-66-1939

Couple other questions from the never ending list:)
- Do I need to Fuse the drivers? They have overcurrent/voltage but I notice some people have?
- Are EMI filters needed with decent star grounding? I'm planning to add the EMI filter option on the transformer.

Possibly one day I can answer some questions:) On a side note, looks like quite a few builds stall or just about complete and then people disappear from the forum, big thanks to those who stick around to keep helping others.

Ryan

[JAZZCNC]

I have this for the cabinet layout - does it look OK or any issues?

You need to think about how the wires run and trunking. how you have it there would be awkward for running wires etc.
I would move the drives away from the Transformer and bring the DC PSU and MCB's etc down near the Transformer so all together in one area. If you have room even bring the VFD into the same area, this way all the high voltage stuff is together.

I would have the drives and controller close together to keep Signal wire runs short as possible. Separate the high power stuff from the Low voltage stuff by placing high and low in the case with Terminal blocks and Relays etc along with trunking between them, essentially dividing the case into 3 areas.
This doesn't matter if it's separated horizontally or vertically, for instance, I often run the drives along the sides of the case vertically as it's easier to wire them. On the opposite side, I will place VFD at the top and PSU, etc below. In the middle will be Terminals and Controller.

Also, I would think about having 2 fans in the case to create a positive pressure in the case to push hot air out.

Edit: Noticed that you have a Pilz relay shown, you don't actually need a safety relay. A normal Relay will work just as well and save you a lot of money.

Lastly, looking at your drawing the scale looks wrong on the parts shown so be very careful when planning out the box because it's SO EASY to run out of room. Often the case will look massive when empty but it quickly fills up. Also if you haven't got the box to measure from then allow a little extra because things like hinges or Earth clamps etc can rob precious space and easily screw up layout plans.
Also if not got a case and solely planning layout in Cad or on paper then I'd try to get exact dimensions of any components because again can soon run out of space and no matter what you do or how you twist things around it just won't fit.!

[CNCRY]

Attempt number 2 - tried to separate Low/High voltage more and incorporate some other suggestions. Airflow intake at the bottom and out at the top, by VFD fan.
I checked the scale and believe its correct - cabinet is 700mm x 500mm . Although the DIN rail items are NOT to scale yet, the DIN rail is. I'll take some photos when parts physically arrive..
I think the conclusion is that fuses are v unlikely to be a negative addition, and probably positive, I'll add these between transformer output and Drivers AC input - probably 5/6A.
I did buy a PNOZ already as I made an ebay offer on one new much below "retail" price and got unexpectedly got accepted.

Andy - yes good shout on 24V PSU, just chose wrong one.
Think I'll need to add a fire extinguisher to the list too before I get started:)