Aluminium Profile Type Router - Initial questions

[JAZZCNC]

I have this for the cabinet layout - does it look OK or any issues?

You need to think about how the wires run and trunking. how you have it there would be awkward for running wires etc.
I would move the drives away from the Transformer and bring the DC PSU and MCB's etc down near the Transformer so all together in one area. If you have room even bring the VFD into the same area, this way all the high voltage stuff is together.

I would have the drives and controller close together to keep Signal wire runs short as possible. Separate the high power stuff from the Low voltage stuff by placing high and low in the case with Terminal blocks and Relays etc along with trunking between them, essentially dividing the case into 3 areas.
This doesn't matter if it's separated horizontally or vertically, for instance, I often run the drives along the sides of the case vertically as it's easier to wire them. On the opposite side, I will place VFD at the top and PSU, etc below. In the middle will be Terminals and Controller.

Also, I would think about having 2 fans in the case to create a positive pressure in the case to push hot air out.

Edit: Noticed that you have a Pilz relay shown, you don't actually need a safety relay. A normal Relay will work just as well and save you a lot of money.

Lastly, looking at your drawing the scale looks wrong on the parts shown so be very careful when planning out the box because it's SO EASY to run out of room. Often the case will look massive when empty but it quickly fills up. Also if you haven't got the box to measure from then allow a little extra because things like hinges or Earth clamps etc can rob precious space and easily screw up layout plans.
Also if not got a case and solely planning layout in Cad or on paper then I'd try to get exact dimensions of any components because again can soon run out of space and no matter what you do or how you twist things around it just won't fit.!

[CNCRY]

Attempt number 2 - tried to separate Low/High voltage more and incorporate some other suggestions. Airflow intake at the bottom and out at the top, by VFD fan.
I checked the scale and believe its correct - cabinet is 700mm x 500mm . Although the DIN rail items are NOT to scale yet, the DIN rail is. I'll take some photos when parts physically arrive..
I think the conclusion is that fuses are v unlikely to be a negative addition, and probably positive, I'll add these between transformer output and Drivers AC input - probably 5/6A.
I did buy a PNOZ already as I made an ebay offer on one new much below "retail" price and got unexpectedly got accepted.

Andy - yes good shout on 24V PSU, just chose wrong one.
Think I'll need to add a fire extinguisher to the list too before I get started:)

[AndyUK]

Looks like good progress.

As Jazz mentioned you now need to consider trunking and cable runs, at the moment any vertical runs are awkward.

I'd also consider putting the contactor in the high voltage section.

[JAZZCNC]

Here's a couple of pics of boxes which might help give some ideas, These range from tiny 300x300(red) to 800x600 boxes.

There's no one way which is better than any other so don't stress over it, just be mindful of high and low voltage wire separation along with grounding and you won't have any issues.

[CNCRY]

Thanks, Some useful ideas there Jazz, with everyone staying close to home at the moment, I had some time to get the E-stop working along with fixing DIN rails and mapping out where things will go:)
After attempting to drill the first 16mm hole in the cabinet with a normal bit I realised what step drills are for and did the rest.. great tool.




Hoping to have linear motion parts finally this week from BST. Physically building again is starting to feel more daunting then the electronics now.!
Thinking about limits and home too -

From what I understand a limit and home can be the same physical switch.
So I'd expect you need a limit on each end of X axis, with one end doubling as a home. Then the same on Y, and Z can have a single switch passed on upper and lower limit, and say upper can be home.
So not sure why people mention 2 X's being used - surely both limits are at the same point as the 2 X axis are parallel?

Edit - Fuse question. The Transformer will be 750VA - 2 x 65V output. I ordered 10A D curve MCB seen on others diagrams, but I'm thinking 750VA/230V is approx 3A so 10A is very high. Or am I missing something (most likely)

Ryan

[JAZZCNC]

From what I understand a limit and home can be the same physical switch.
So I'd expect you need a limit on each end of X axis, with one end doubling as a home. Then the same on Y, and Z can have a single switch passed on upper and lower limit, and say upper can be home.
So not sure why people mention 2 X's being used - surely both limits are at the same point as the 2 X axis are parallel?

Ok well regards the X-axis having 2 switches this only applies if you are using twin screws, one side will have a switch that works for limits and home, the other side as a switch just for home. Reason being you home each side independently to square up the gantry. But you only need a limit on one side.

Now regards having a switch at each end then there's another way, which IMO is the best way and uses just one switch on each axis.
You place the switch on the moving part ie: Gantry and Y axis which then looks for a target at each end of travel. The Z-axis just uses a fixed switch at the top of travel which looks for the target on the moving part.
This means you have less switches and less wiring to go wrong.This can be done with either proximity or Microswitch type's.

[CNCRY]

Ok well regards the X-axis having 2 switches this only applies if you are using twin screws, one side will have a switch that works for limits and home, the other side as a switch just for home. Reason being you home each side independently to square up the gantry. But you only need a limit on one side.

Now regards having a switch at each end then there's another way, which IMO is the best way and uses just one switch on each axis.
You place the switch on the moving part ie: Gantry and Y axis which then looks for a target at each end of travel. The Z-axis just uses a fixed switch at the top of travel which looks for the target on the moving part.
This means you have less switches and less wiring to go wrong.This can be done with either proximity or Microswitch type's.

Hi Jazz - So as I have twin X screws, if I go for the moving option on gantry I just need the single physical switch on each X (one acts as limit/home the other just home) and I have contacts at each end the switch triggers?
Then Y needs only one switch using same setup?

Thanks

[AndyUK]

Edit - Fuse question. The Transformer will be 750VA - 2 x 65V output. I ordered 10A D curve MCB seen on others diagrams, but I'm thinking 750VA/230V is approx 3A so 10A is very high. Or am I missing something (most likely)

I believe that D curve MCB is sized to cope with the inrush current. A 1KVA transformer will only need approx 4A in steady state on UK mains (varies with min input voltage and efficiency) but the inrush can be something like 100A for a very short amount of time (dimming lights anyone?).

[CNCRY]

My linear motion parts are finally here! Happy with the service from Fred at BST - all parts received and in good order. Took a fair few extra weeks but with the worldwide situation at the moment not at all surprising!



Looks like most aluminium supplies however are shut so maybe time for more electronics..

So today's question - does anyone know of a coupler for a 10mm end of the ballscrew to a 10mm with 3x16 keyway (on the motor shaft)
I got a load of "oldham" couplers from BST but they are 7mm/10mm bore with no keyway. Stupid question but does the keyway detach?
The problem is the hybrid steppers are not standard 7mm shafts!

Thanks
Ryan