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  1. #61
    Quote Originally Posted by Doddy View Post
    Now, I don't know where to start with the driver. Quickly looking back I thought you was looking at LCDA86's - but one of your diagrams shows a LCDA86H - I think that 'H' is significant here as it raises the operating voltage and introduces a AC-supply option to what was previously a DC supply-only, and at a higher voltage. Clearly the non-H variant would require you to rectify the supply and you'd be so far beyond the rating I'd expect you to blow the drivers. If you do have the 'H' variants, then I think you're on the ragged edge.

    As far as I know there as never been an "S" version of this drive. I think you may be confusing these with the AM882S which did have an AC "H" version. These drives take both AC or DC.

    Now your right on the edge with the voltage so your incoming supply must be on the high side. These drives will run at that voltage and won't give you any trouble provided your incoming supply doesn't fluctuate. The drives do have over-voltage protection, so they should protect them selfs from slight peaks and you will probably get a drop when under load. Only you know your incoming supply so only you can evaluate the risk.

    The other option if you don't want to risk it is to throw a bridge rectifier and some Caps on it and go with DC.

    If it helps you decide all I can say is I've run these drives at the ragged edge on volts before (I live next to the transformer and my supply can hit 256Vac so my supply is like a box of chocolates.!) without any troubles but I've also blown one of the smaller 50v versions by accidentally pushing too far so they only protect upto a point.!

    Or buy a lower-rated supply that suits your incoming supply better. ( If it helps I'll take that one from you )

  2. #62
    Yeah, was referring to the drive without alpha postfix - the stock LCDA86 - that has a much lower (and DC only) operating voltage. Take your point on the 'H' version.

  3. #63
    Quote Originally Posted by CNCRY View Post
    Reading some of the new threads I've been re-thinking and slightly concerned that the accuracy I'm building too could result in inaccurate final results.
    As this is all "by hand" and printing 1:1 scaling, drill holes are perhaps up to 1mm out, I'm using a digital caliper and angle measuring device during the build, but check as much as possible
    There is some slight adjustment by the hole sizing on everything - how much can the software make up for sub mm "corrections"
    Maybe overthinking it - but also don't want to end up with something not accurate after all the effort.
    As I haven't owned a CNC machine before I don't know what accuracy I'd like, but for example if I could produce something like the Aztec calendar I'd be happy..
    Don't stress over it and it's perfectly possible to build an accurate machine that will easily cut the Aztec calendar by using hand tools, most of the builds on this forum are built solely using hand tools or a large percentage.

    Accuracy comes from the setting up and alignment etc. Remember Adjustment, Adjustment Adjustment so slightly oversize holes can help here.

  4. #64
    Thanks everyone for the replies , no way I'd get throug h the build without the help here !
    So I think the best option is going to be new transformer, with the cost of the drives at risk, and fact I'd prefer the simplest approach !
    So to be 100% here, 60v or 55v to be safer if supply varies to high side . Will I lose much power @ 55V? And stick with 750VA?
    Will PM you about other transformer if interested jazz.

  5. #65
    Quote Originally Posted by CNCRY View Post
    Thanks everyone for the replies , no way I'd get throug h the build without the help here !
    So I think the best option is going to be new transformer, with the cost of the drives at risk, and fact I'd prefer the simplest approach !
    So to be 100% here, 60v or 55v to be safer if supply varies to high side . Will I lose much power @ 55V? And stick with 750VA?
    Will PM you about other transformer if interested jazz.
    Personally I would go with 60V and 625Va or even 500Va
    ..Clive
    The more you know, The better you know, How little you know

  6. #66
    Watching thread with interest, as admire how you have got stuck in and learning as you go. I am trying to get a clear plan and design before spending a penny......so happy to learn from your journey.

    No help on electricals, but back to printer paper plans. I use this all the time for woodworking templates. You want a spray can of 3M '77' good for temporary and permanent bonding light weight materials.

    Keep going and keep sharing gotchas!

  7. #67
    Quote Originally Posted by CNCRY View Post
    Will I lose much power @ 55V? And stick with 750VA?
    As I understand it (and I might misunderstand the theory) you're not losing power, as such, but top-end speed/torque. But listen to Clive.

  8. #68
    Gantry Sides done - need to counterbore the M12 bolts slightly but waiting on a 13mm drillbit for clearance hole..
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Ended up ordering a new 60V output transformer. Fingers crossed I'll also have the closed-loop steppers and drives turning up in next few days. :)
    Lichuan 5.5Nm - LCDA86H+LC60H2127 > https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3279...44bf3421SaYv5O

    I'm thinking about cable management, its probably been a bit of an afterthought so far, but I'm thinking having it in my hands will be easier to "visualise". From other post's I'm thinking something like https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/R38-18mm-...K/163618534489 or will that be underkill?
    I'd have 2 x 8mm coolant pipes (and 1 air TBC), 1.5mm CY for spindle, Z and Y motors, encoder cable? Y and Z limits.

    Also trying to find the right pulleys for Y and Z - planning on 15mm HTD5 (10mm bore) in 1:1 ratio - but how many teeth do people go for?

  9. #69
    Quote Originally Posted by Andrewg View Post
    Watching thread with interest, as admire how you have got stuck in and learning as you go. I am trying to get a clear plan and design before spending a penny......so happy to learn from your journey.

    No help on electricals, but back to printer paper plans. I use this all the time for woodworking templates. You want a spray can of 3M '77' good for temporary and permanent bonding light weight materials.

    Keep going and keep sharing gotchas!
    Thanks Andrew - I researched lots before starting but I find its easier to get started and "fix" some variables in the design otherwise I was going round in circles thinking and changing ideas. Probably means I will have a few gotcha's but hoping not too many! the help on this forum is great also, and helping me get a machine built which was just a pipe dream 6 months ago.

  10. #70
    Quote Originally Posted by CNCRY View Post
    Also trying to find the right pulleys for Y and Z - planning on 15mm HTD5 (10mm bore) in 1:1 ratio - but how many teeth do people go for?
    20T are what I find best, don't go less than 18 because it makes it difficult with the boss size and you don't have much left for the grub screws. Also, don't try boring them by just drilling on a drill press, they need to be drilled and reamed accurately. I suggest if you haven't got a lathe or a very very good drill press or Minimill then buy them already bored.

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