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08-04-2020 #1
@Jazz: I'm basically a lazy b'tard. That answer pretty much sums up most of my life choices.
Qidi Print v5.3.2 is based on Cura v<can't remember - an old version>, re-skinned for Qidi and with supplemental device drivers. The Qidi print integrates the Wifi interface to the printer that Cura (tried 4.5) does not - at least not with the Qidi printer. There's all sorts of hacks online to import the model of the X-Max's print bed, and people get a long way towards using Cura but stop to either print to a memory stick or to integrate Octoprint. The latter interests me mildly, the former does not (the X-Max doesn't support USB printing, so everything is either network [not Cura] or USB stick / touch-screen).
I've diff'd the Qidi-Print installation vs Cura hoping to hand-crank dropping the Qidi-specifics onto a Cura install but there are architectural changes in both directory and file structure that make this challenging (see first sentence).
EDIT: To OP, Octoprint is a RPI build that provides network/wifi (I think HTTP/Web-based) interface to the printer - you install this onto the target machine and it allows you to send the sliced file through network/octoprint and it then manages the printer and provides notification back to the user, offers options like local camera support/monitor. Nice idea.
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08-04-2020 #2
If you guys dont mind will try to explain here some stuff in detail and offer some tips. Even if you are an advanced 3d print user you may find sth usefull
I use Simplify 3d and IMO is worth the price even if only if they were the first to offer on their web site a tutorial how to figure what's wrong with ones print. In times where nobody had it clear and all was a speculation,
Though i can do the same with most of the main slicers, i find that the Simplify3d is better at the job for complex prints and more straightforward and easy to understand and control.
A couple of tips to begin with 3d printing and have perfect result:
There are some points that are a must to understand and do, thanks god that we are CNC people, so i don't have to explain you that the main thing to do before print is measure the filament diameter and introduce it before slicing. The exact roll filament diameter, not some ideal 1.75mm. 99% of children on facebook groups don't do that and after that ask stupid questions
Second thing to understand is that the 0.4mm nozzle is best for general work and that leads to 2 things. Fine print layer must be 0.2mm and fast print layer height must be 0.3mm
Print width must be 0.5mm and must be set on manual in slicer. And the design must be done so that wall thickness is divisible to 0.5mm so it could be only XX.5 or XX.00mm. Same is with the height of the model must be divisible to 0.3mm as probably you will print mainly on fast or to 0.2mmm if you print on fine. Object must be exported with 0.05mm or better precision from CAD or there will be visible liner where circles are
Third thing to tune is what's red in the picture bellow and there is no better way than ask in forum or group for your printer and start with a profile that's already working perfectly. Otherwise you are doomed
Every different filament has contraction once printed which is different in Z from XY, so a test model like 50mm OD x5mm H is good to be printed and play with it until you get everything right. Is small and cheap and easy to figure what's going on. No need for complicated figures and boats. Normally i slice at 101.5% from original model, hence generally filament contracts a bit after printing so i upscale my models with 1.25 to 1.5% depends on filament. Normally the print is like xx.05mm precise which is not bad at all.
Push Tight Tit is achieved with elements offset 1 print width from each other and Normal Tight fit is around 2 print widths and more for looser. In other words to fit 50mm OD circle in a ring, the ring has 5.8mm-6mm ID
Next thing to understand is that 30% infill is the ideal. Nothing better happens if you raise it except if you are printing gears and such. For solid and usable objects 4 layers on all sides is ideal, 3 is usable but 4 guarantees that will not break.
I use rafts on all prints as i want all well supported and flat. And supports where necessary with the last 2 layers of the support solid at 80% so next layer starts with finish from below like printed on ground zero
It's crucial to adjust the separation distance even 0.05mm is critical , so use the 50mm disc to test. that settings is directly connected with the temperature you print at, so if you raise temp things will glue together and that separation should be adjusted
On forums and facebook groups you will hear talk about ridiculously fast speeds. Nope. Any printer not using servos and 300eu controller can not print with precise result faster than this below. Apart from that the filament has limit in its how to say it- acceleration of fluidity and stickiness , so that are the correct speeds
And at last the filament . Tried many but worth working and learning are ABS/ must be printed in Enclosure/ and mainly use PETG as it has the best of all worlds and useful object could be done with it so its my main filament. Nylon and other special plastics for specific products.
To find the correct temperature for the filament the best way is to print the said 50 OD x5mm H cylinder at 30% infill and with the adjustments above all done, then look at the first layer after the infill which has cell structure. If the filament falls in between the cells temp is high, if top wall is straight then temp is right.
good thing is you can adjust the temp and look at the immediate result, use touch to see well.
Hope that mini tutorial will help people fine tune their printingLast edited by Boyan Silyavski; 08-04-2020 at 11:27 AM.
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08-04-2020 #3
If you want a reliable printer and your money to go into the right direction buy Prusa or Steel, as they have better quality electronics.
Hi guys, a bit late in the discussion.
If you don't want to spend money, buy it assembled second hand, as many of the freaks will like to buy the latest edition and could be selling one in classifieds. And search Facebook for the Prusa group and ask there.
Under 1k there are not other better or reliable printers. All else has a serious fault or 2. Not that the prusa is perfect, as it would have benefited from hiwin12 and would have become perfect.
When i say reliable printer i mean to work 24h without any fault and produce impeccable parts, properly sized parts that fit together, and most of all does not burn your house.
In a printer there are like 100 things to adjust in the program for one to understand properly what's going on. It took me about a month to become an expert, playing 10h per day with the thing. Once you understand the logic behind everything its very easy to correct deviations. The Prusa printer helped in that as was super reliable.
Now add to that a crappy printer, with crappy electronics and god forbid crappy extruder and you will never understand whats going on and it will finish in a corner somewhere.
Just my 2 cents.
PS. I print and sell a cnc dust shoe / see signature/, it takes like 24h to print the main part and it has to have a tight fit to any spindle. Its a very tricky print as one has to take into account also the retraction of the material after print, that is opposite for the 2 holes, one tries to become bigger and the other smaller due to the material cooling and stressing the print. Also have printed my self working Japanese flute, working chuck, and many more things, usable things. Also have repaired my friends crappy printer so i know the difference
What i am saying is the main thing is to learn the printing and concentrate on designing and producing, not figuring what is not right and repairing. Filament is cheap, but a 24h print is 20e in materials. A couple of fails and you are in the hundreds of lost money
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09-04-2020 #4
No used 3d printers in NZ that I can find atm.
Done a search online for new. Not many companys in NZ that are allowed to trade atm.
Best One I could find (in stock) and able to trade is ; https://nz.element14.com/creality-3d...ac/dp/2843627#Last edited by dudz; 09-04-2020 at 08:48 AM.
3 axis CNC/router / Alu profile frame....25mm Alu Cutting bed X=500mm Y=300mm Z=110mm.....Supported 25mm X rails ....Supported 20mm Y rails....Supported 20mm Z rails.....2.2kw Chinese WC spindle..... CSLAB CSMIO/IP-M 4-axis Ethernet Motion Controller....M542 Drivers..SY60STH86-3008BF Motors...running....Mach3 / Cambam / Emachineshop.
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09-04-2020 #5
Thank everyone for the detailed information !. Must have taken quite some time
When I get a printer I will def have a crack at this.3 axis CNC/router / Alu profile frame....25mm Alu Cutting bed X=500mm Y=300mm Z=110mm.....Supported 25mm X rails ....Supported 20mm Y rails....Supported 20mm Z rails.....2.2kw Chinese WC spindle..... CSLAB CSMIO/IP-M 4-axis Ethernet Motion Controller....M542 Drivers..SY60STH86-3008BF Motors...running....Mach3 / Cambam / Emachineshop.
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09-04-2020 #6
Deleted - see next post
Last edited by Doddy; 09-04-2020 at 09:28 AM.
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09-04-2020 #7
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09-04-2020 #8
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09-04-2020 #9
Sorry Guys, I did edit out the first link. Didnt think anyone would be about . I did search some used printers, but they either had very small build areas or just shit. The Creality 10S happens to be the Only (as you said decent) one in stock and available to ship in NZ during lockdown.
Cant see ABS listed as an option with this printer ?. Whats the general better material to use for strong parts ?.Last edited by dudz; 09-04-2020 at 10:55 AM.
3 axis CNC/router / Alu profile frame....25mm Alu Cutting bed X=500mm Y=300mm Z=110mm.....Supported 25mm X rails ....Supported 20mm Y rails....Supported 20mm Z rails.....2.2kw Chinese WC spindle..... CSLAB CSMIO/IP-M 4-axis Ethernet Motion Controller....M542 Drivers..SY60STH86-3008BF Motors...running....Mach3 / Cambam / Emachineshop.
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09-04-2020 #10
ABS needs an enclosure, simple from cardboard or polystyrene foam, or more complex from wood and glass. You could print simple stiff without a box enclosure but anything complicated will be a 100% fail. Apart from that ABS is weak.
PETG is the filament that does it all, strong and does not melt from the sun in a car dashboard for example. No good for engine and near engine..
And when you learn the PETG, Nylon is next as this is the filament for more resistant parts and car parts
Its absolutely pointless to buy and use PLA. before an year or 2 it was the cheapest and PETG was triple the price. |Now that prices are almost same, there is no point. parts are strong and is easy to print but will melt left at sunshine.
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