Losing steps/position, again

[Doddy]

When would it be convenient to pick up

Sent a PM.

[ngwagwa]

If you go with the AXBB and UcCNC software then you won't be able to use it and I would use the UcCNC software over Mach3 as it's getting long in the tooth.
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Looks like I can use a plugin to control the VFD http://www.forum.cncdrive.com/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=2041

[Doddy]

ngawagwa: Jazz offers some good advice but you still have the problem that down-time is costing you money. From what I read you're still in the "misbehaving" stage and trying to get going? The original Denford electronics were, I understand 24VAC (and only 100VA for the drivers), but you say that somewhere along the line someone has replaced a bunch of stuff with a Mach3 conversion - including a separate 24VDC PSU. It's possible that they've pushed this straight onto the existing Denford card (it is likely to just rectify/smooth this straight onto the drivers and this would work with DC).

I offer the following cautiously, because it's a poor half-way house. If you need to try to get going quickly and don't mind a bit of down time to re-wire, then your original idea of slaving the DIV-268 onto the X-Axis could be sensible - and I can gift you a 200VA/36V SMPS. Yes, it's entirely the wrong PSU, but for a single axis (to test that the concept is right and you that have nothing else going wrong) it could get you going for the very short term. I can even drop you a couple more DIV-268s if they're handy for you (they are not great, but at 36V will out-perform the Denford drivers). That would just be to solidify you're own view as to what your shopping list needs to be and possibly get you back cutting tomorrow (if you don't remember my name - if you recall the vacuum bed? - I'm local). The PSU did, once upon a time, control a Denford star mill.

It's absolutely not an end-solution - I'd agree with the previous sentiments that you need to throw 300-500VA at around 50V at this with a toroid. Your final choice of drivers may allow you a simple direct connection to a transformer (if they support AC supply) and a modern digital driver will outperform the old shite analogues (and I include the DIV-268s amongst those). And you'd need to weigh up the down-time of slaving an axis onto a separate PSU and driver (an hour?) against your productivity. But the offers there.

[ngwagwa]

Pictures of currrent control box - I was wrong I don't appear to have a 5v supply.
https://lozharroplures.co.uk/my_images/1a.jpg
https://lozharroplures.co.uk/my_images/2a.jpg
https://lozharroplures.co.uk/my_images/3a.jpg
https://lozharroplures.co.uk/my_images/4a.jpg
https://lozharroplures.co.uk/my_images/5.jpg
https://lozharroplures.co.uk/my_images/6.jpg
https://lozharroplures.co.uk/my_images/7.jpg
https://lozharroplures.co.uk/my_images/8.jpg
https://lozharroplures.co.uk/my_images/9.jpg

[Doddy]

You've linked to the same file for each image.

[JAZZCNC]

Pictures of currrent control box - I was wrong I don't appear to have a 5v supply.

Can we have a overall pic of the complete box as it will help make things clearer.

[Doddy]

Um!, no 5V supply to the BoB?, normally people sling a USB lead from the computer to the BoB, and the BoB salvages a 5V supply from that. Or, you can provide a 5V supply to the "PC 5V" supply on the board itself.

Edit: My bad, image 4A shows the BoB has a supply from somewhere.

[dazp1976]

Um!, no 5V supply to the BoB?, normally people sling a USB lead from the computer to the BoB, and the BoB salvages a 5V supply from that. Or, you can provide a 5V supply to the "PC 5V" supply on the board itself.

Edit: My bad, image 4A shows the BoB has a supply from somewhere.

I've got a similar BOB and spotted something too.
If you take your 5v from 'elsewhere' (bottom right of bob) and don't get it through the usb header it bypasses the boards protection circuits!! Caution needed.
It's recommended to use a bare ended usb cable from a psu to the board header in order to both avoid PC usb noise and keep board protection.

[Doddy]

It's recommended to use a bare ended usb cable from a psu to the board header in order to both avoid PC usb noise and keep board protection.

Have you a link to this recommendation - I have two identical cards in my machine fed from the local supply so I'm interested if I have a dormant problem or not.

[ngwagwa]

Um!, no 5V supply to the BoB?, normally people sling a USB lead from the computer to the BoB, and the BoB salvages a 5V supply from that. Or, you can provide a 5V supply to the "PC 5V" supply on the board itself.

Edit: My bad, image 4A shows the BoB has a supply from somewhere.

I think it is fed from the Baldor board behind it - it's the top red wire

https://lozharroplures.co.uk/my_images/10.jpg