Thread: N0VUSUN and Mitsubishi-D700-SC
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15-04-2020 #1
I think you said previously that you could manually spin up the spindle by grounding the control into the VFD, so the VFD and the programming is okay?
This should be do-able. If you can post a photo of the wiring to the relay (try to get as much in there as you can), and do you have a DMM (multi-meter) - can you measure the output-1/S-Axis output for spindle On/Off.
EDIT:
I *expect* (though might be wrong) that the Out-1 will be measured at around 24V with the spindle off, and "some" volts - maybe 8-16 with the spindle "On". If so, if you can report back.Last edited by Doddy; 15-04-2020 at 09:01 PM.
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15-04-2020 #2
Have you enabled and setup the Output1 in Mach3 and then selected output1 in spindle control.?
Also, does the plug-in have any settings that need setting.? . . .I've no idea on this as never used this controller but usually, there is a spindle section in most plug-ins that needs to be eneabled or setup.
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15-04-2020 #3
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15-04-2020 #4
i have noticed that the led on the relay lights up but dim and does not click in when the spindle is switched on in mach 3
the relay works 100% if i wire it direct to the power supply it clicks in and closes the contacts.
the relay is wired direct to the +24v on the power supply and the ov ground from the power sully goes to crd on the novusun...the out1 from the s axis goes to the relay for the OV
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16-04-2020 #5
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16-04-2020 #6
Good, this is very useful. The relay you have (MY4N-J) is a 24VDC relay, to answer Clive. That the LED on the relay illuminates, dimly, when "on" answers the question of whether the driver is configured correctly - from memory the driver is a very simple thing that doesn't really respect the ports/pins settings in Mach3. So that looks good. You've tried manually energising the relay and that works as expected - so VFD wiring and settings are good. This leads me back to my questions, and a hunch that I have.
First one - photos of the relay, I wanted to check if you've wired the diode correctly, but if you hadn't then you wouldn't be able to manually energise the relay (not without blowing the 1n4001... not entirely unlikely if it is wired the wrong way around).
Secondly, the voltage on the out-1 pin on the NVEM. If it is low, at 0V or maybe up to 2-3V then I'd say the opto-coupler output (internal to the NVEM) is switching as designed. But that would give you a bright LED. If, as I'd rambled about earlier, it doesn't switch effectively (low CTR) then the opto-coupler driving the NVEM output will have a high resistance, and the terminal voltage at OUT1 will be some proportion of the 24V supply. The higher the terminal voltage, the lower the voltage across the coil (and the internal LED) and the less energy to switch the relay. My question of the measured voltage - if above more than a few volts then I don't believe the NVEM is effectively switching the relay and we have to look at a current amplifier. I (or many others here) can help you sort that.Last edited by Doddy; 16-04-2020 at 08:34 AM.
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15-04-2020 #7
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16-04-2020 #8
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16-04-2020 #9
Can I ask you to confirm a couple of things that I've read/interpreted/misinterpreted...
1) When measuring the voltage on the relay you're looking at the side connected to the NVEM? And what you said in the last post was that when "on" the voltage here - at the NVEM side of the relay (pin 13 on the relay) is 24V? The relay LED is ON (dim)?
2) When the spindle is intended to be "off", if you measured the relay (pin 13) voltage it is 24V? The relay LED is OFF?
3) When you connect the NVEM output from to the relay (pin 13) to 0V the relay switches, and the relay LED is ON (bright)?
These first two appear contradictory to me - the side of the relay connected to the NVEM must drop by the forward voltage of the LED for it to light up - even dimly. I might expect the NVEM side of the relay coil to be 24V when OFF, but somewhere less than 22V when ON (a red LED is typically around 2V forward voltage drop). If you can confirm this behaviour then I can solve your problem. But if you're saying that the LED comes on (dimly) for condition (1) and off for condition (2) without the voltage on that side of the coil changing then I cannot understand the physics at play.
If you confirm that the voltage on pin 13 of the relay drops at least a couple of volts when the relay is supposed to be "on" then I'll get something in the post for you tomorrow to fix it.Last edited by Doddy; 16-04-2020 at 07:15 PM. Reason: corrected wording around LED being off for condition (2)
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16-04-2020 #10
Here's a good one for you.!
In the past I've had these relays come the wrong way around ie: Pin13 iss V+ 14 V- and it did exactly what you are getting. Check it.!
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