Thread: 4th axis brake enquiry
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29-04-2020 #11
I was in the workshop today trying to learn how to program simultaneously 4th axis and had a bit of wood on the 4th. When I put some pressure on the edge of the wood I can see a small amount of movement at the motor. I’ve got a digital driver on that 4th and wonder if it might also ‘have a go at’ self correcting, not as good as a closed loop thought i’m sure.
From the movement I could see it looks like the wee pulley on the motor needs some mechanical advantage help so I think your idea of the rotary table might be better. I see people using 30:1, 100:1 gearing, what kind of gearing is on a rotary table. At this point I wish I knew more about mechanical engineering. ..
All things considered was pretty surprised my attempts without using specific kinematic actually worked to program some simultaneously 4th axis action just using a basic mach3 post processor?!
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29-04-2020 #12
I'm guessing you mean the InTurn thread on MachSupport?
IIRC you could swap the belt to get a double reduction for more torque.
You can get bicycle disk brakes from 120 to 220mm, however I wouldn't use one for a brake as they're too flexy. I think the InTurn used a motorbike/scooter disk, as some of those use pretty small disks, but the disks are also pretty substantial and won't flex like a bicycle disk. He also built his own caliper setup. All you need is a lever, and a suitable taper.Avoiding the rubbish customer service from AluminiumWarehouse since July '13.
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29-04-2020 #13
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The Following User Says Thank You to Boyan Silyavski For This Useful Post:
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29-04-2020 #14
Thanks for the ideas and support, much appreciated.
I’m frequently asked if I can do two types of statue milling. 1: where a client wants a copy of a sculpture, If I can do these as a continuous 360 helical mill I will do but often that strategy can’t get all the detail so that why i’mcurrently learning 2: index milling to get better 4 sided definition and detail. Or to put it another way have more control over the access to difficult areas. So yes I as I don’t need speed I just need holding torque I could do with a reduction to help the motor pulley side but also a brake so yes the bicycle or moped hydraulic brake might be fine.
Thinking extra laterally here for a moment as a short term solution what I could do is mill a few 300mm wooden disks with degree marking added or included as holes for pegs and just use separate files to orientate the stock to the angle I want and lock it off with a g-clamp. I know I know not very high tech but if all I have to do is remember to remove and reclamp the g-clamp to hold it steady i’d go for that.
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30-04-2020 #15
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01-05-2020 #16
They look like a top bit of kit - accurate to about 0.1 degree if I've read the Ondrives data correctly.
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01-05-2020 #17
They're certainly worth trying.
Looking at the OnDrive website for Nema mount version, it looks like you can get either an 8 arc minute, and a 30 arc minute version, which is 0.1333, or 0.5 degrees.
It all depends what kind of accuracy is needed. 0.5 deg works out about 1.3mm of movement at a 300mm diameter. Off course the 0.5deg figure is the worst case scenario.Avoiding the rubbish customer service from AluminiumWarehouse since July '13.
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12-05-2020 #18
Just out of interest i've knocked up this manual trunnion positioner to allow me to 5 faces foamboard up to 750x400x200mm. Ideally yes this would all be automated one day with the OnDrive Rino units I have but in these COVid times i'm doing a temp improvisation with what i've got in the workshop to test the proof of concept. Hopefully one day this will be a fully automated unit with amazing holding torque and a brake but for now just got to test it works. Watch this space for an update.
I should point out the top plate is attached to the foamboard with jumbo helical insulation screws and that plate is mounted to a 360 deg turntable, which should allow for quick changeover of stock. I have afterall got 144, 5-sided parts to mill!!
Last edited by marbles; 12-05-2020 at 10:40 AM.
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