Boxford TCL 125

[John11668]

This bike was a leg breaker so we did not feel guilty having converted to electric start . I was invited to do an article for Old bike mart.so I f you want to give me your email I will send you a copy.

Do you have a pic of what the rod should look like so I can produce something similar.
Most of the limit buttons seem to have a healthy click but the ball switch , RH side back of the perspex guard has no click at all so doesnt sound to be switching anything. I will take it off and check it out but it looks like I need to remove the fan to get at the switch fixings.

Is there a limit on the X traverse ? I dont see one.

While I am checking these I will take and post pics of the things you asked for .

[John11668]

Some pics as requested







Am in the process of checking continuity through switches ( they certainly didnt stint on interlocks) and looks like there are two circuits
Would be nice to have a wiring circuit for interlocks to be able to test end to end .. I cant see where these are connected to the panel

Door to spindle drive belts seems to have 3. A button switch at opening end seems to have been disconnected, ball switch at hinge end has two microswitches.
Have linked out the suspect ball switch on perspex cover although it does seem to be operating, but still no joy with traverses ,with manual on or Off.

Stepper motors and traverses move freely (untill you switch power on and then the motors lock)

Dont seem to be any homing switches ??
I f you guys have any wiring diagrams then i would love to see them .
If not the guy I spoke of thinks he may have some .

[JAZZCNC]

Will it matter whether we are running Mach 3 or UCCNC? I guess we will need to know pin identities, etc but I will not go there until I have the benefit of your invaluable opinions

UCCNC will only work if you have a Motion controller from CNC Drive. Their motion controllers will work both with Mach3 and UCCNC software using plugin for Mach3.

Mach3 and a Simple BOB will get you going providing you can find the Pins out's. However, if your running limits and speed control/direction along with ATC you may find you run out of I/O as the BOB as limited I/O. Personally I would fit an external motion controller anyway just for the reliabilty and to get away from the parallel port.

[John11668]

I do have a UC100 Jazz, so uccnc is not a problem. I was led to believe that to run Mach3 on a 64 bit computer I would need UC100 so am used to using that on a mill . Havent looked to see pin arrangement for lathe . I suspect we have a way to go before we connect the computer

[Doddy]

I do have a UC100 Jazz, so uccnc is not a problem. I was led to believe that to run Mach3 on a 64 bit computer I would need UC100 so am used to using that on a mill . Havent looked to see pin arrangement for lathe . I suspect we have a way to go before we connect the computer

Just to butt-in, use UCCNC for integration and all that, but it doesn't really support lathe operation at all well. That's the only reason I use LinuxCNC on my lathe.

[depronman]

I am using linuxcnc on an Orac lathe. Using two parallel ports one on motherboard and a pci card running an encoder limit switches and a number of control panel buttons. Cycle start stop pause etc. It’s been rock solid since I set it up after the conversion some 8 months ago
I’ve used mach3 but linuxcnc is just sooooo much better
Gmaccopy is a major improvement over axis as a screen interface. All I can say is it just works where as Mach3 would and still does on my other cnc lathe have its moments
I would go to linuxcnc on that one as well but I invested in a pokeys motion controller and don’t want to bin that so mach3 will love on for the time being

Paul


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[inee]

xis

[John11668]

I get the principle on the x limit Inee . I can probably rig one of those .
Am replacing the micro in my Fail safe switch . Seems to be switching but no positive click so I dont have a lot of confidence in it ,.
Where is the ring of interlocks connected to the boards . Wires are hard to trace with all the zip ties they have used.

[inee]

that went well
I've added two pics one is of the switch is yours thee same if so either remove the bolts on the perspex cover , or with the cover open drill a small hole in line with the allen bolt on the switch housing. remove the interlocks one by one and give em a clean, they probably have not been cleaned since the 90's.

Some lathes were fitted with limit/homing switches many more have only the limit switch to stop you from machining the chuck randomly, you mentioned 2 circuits for the switches, one is for the Z limit ,t'udders for the interlocks.

Quick question did you move the feed pot on the control panel as from memory if its at minimum the axis will just sit there
Again let us know how you get on.

The boards fitted to yours, i haven't seen those versions, top board is the same on most with different components for differing spec.

When you've got a minute can you move the top board ( easiest way is to remove the tow stepper connectors, remove the nylon nuts, then move the top board over a bit an take a few pics of the lower board., and one of the optoisolated board on the speed controller.

A quick note about new control boards is if you want to use the control panel your going to need at least 16 - 20 inputs.
tomorrow i will find the stepper driver data sheets and the index/timing pinouts

i will also put up the dimensions for the limit switch actuator

would look now but i aint had no sleep since Monday

[inee]

I get the principle on the x limit Inee . I can probably rig one of those .
Am replacing the micro in my Fail safe switch . Seems to be switching but no positive click so I dont have a lot of confidence in it ,.
Where is the ring of interlocks connected to the boards . Wires are hard to trace with all the zip ties they have used.

Cant remember where they connect on the board, what i did when i first got mine was to remove the cable ties and replace em loosely unit i got to the wires i was following, bloody tedious but i got there in the end, i loosely replaced em as it was easier to trace other wires.
just had a look at one of your pics to me it looks like the interlocks are wired to the top board in positions 7 and 8 of the connector which mostly went to the speed controller, havwe a look at one of your images I'm reposting, I've added a yellow circle is the wire in the yellow ring broken(orange wire).
Dead quick check is do a continuity test between those 2 orange wires pin 7 and 8.. if you get no joy try a check between one pin and every wire in the ceramic connector then try the other pin.

was going to log off then had a look at the pics
w