Thread: Boxford TCL125. (Fresh start )
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14-10-2020 #21
Hi John
Sorry I forgot that my isolator board on the lenze was buggered.
So I had to work around the lack of isolator board
You can take the simpler root of using the pwm output from the BoB into the input on the lenze isolator board
You also take a couple of wires from the lenze controller into and the out of the BoB relay
So the relay will turn the lenze controller on and off
The BoB typically as the par port pin17 output set to control the relay
So linuxcnc in Hal links the par port 17 out to the m3 command and spindle start buttons
This in turn triggers the relay on the BoB and that turns the lenze on
You then send the S value. Eg s1000 to the BoB and thee BoB generates a voltage (pwm) between 0v and 10v. This voltage is sent to the lenze input and thus creates a specific speed of ration on the spindle
Sorry about the confusion
If you did t have the isolation board then this is where the diycnc board comes into play, it would take step/Dir pulses from the BoB and use that to create a 0v to 10v output for the lenze
Cheers Paul
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Sorry about the confusion
If you did t have the isolation board then this is where the diycnc board comes into play, it would take step/Dir pulses from the BoB and use that to create a 0v to 10v output for the lenze
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PWM-to-Vo...72.m2749.l2649..Clive
The more you know, The better you know, How little you know
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30-10-2020 #23
Hi folks
A few steps forward today. 0-10v from the board is varying spindle speed up to about 3500revs
So now I need to find our how to wire the spindle encoder and configure it . Not intuitive this
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30-10-2020 #24
John
Are you doing this with mach3 or linuxcnc ?
You should find the optical spindle encoder sensor wire it’s got four coloured wires in on cable. It went to the LH end of the board that you sent me. Has a flat inline style connector
On my vmc190 then optical sensor on the machine end of this cable was caput but I found a suitable optical sensor in my bits and bobs tin
You will need to establish what sensor is being used and google it for a data sheet
In principle the optical sensor is a led on one side and a sensor on the other they will share a common ground line
Connect the led negative to the Bob ground, the plus side of the led to the required voltage on the Bob (this is where the data sheet comes in handy) let’s assume it’s 12volts
Then the trigger wire to the Bob input pin that you wish to use
Then you rotate the spindle you should see the pin flash one per revolution in mach3 or LinuxCNC
There should be two optical sensors you want the outer one of the two for the single. Pulse per rev (only thing that mach3 will use)
You do the same on the inner sensor and map that pin to the A of the encoder. The single pulse per rev is the Z connector
In linuxcnc you can do all of this with the step config wizard
Paul
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30-10-2020 #25
Hi john.
the colour codes for the wires is in the manual, the index is a single slot on the disc, the timing has a lot more. If the index doesn't trigger correctly you need to widen the slot a tad
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31-10-2020 #26
Am playing at the moment in Mach 3 but fully intend to convert to Linux when I get everything working!
I have the encoder cable but just unsure how to connect it . I dont have a pinout for this Bob. (They dont do instructions for this price )
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mach3-CNC...0AAOSw6Olffu9N
I got to the pin settings for the 0-10v output by trial and error with motor set for step /direction control rather than PWM. It works but I may not have it right and I am struggling to understand how a step /direction signal controls a relay or a voltage output , so I am apprehensive about connecting an encoder without understanding what I am doing and why I am doing it .
Is there any clear guidance or manual for this task.
Prior to this my only experience was the mill function. I can handle the idea that inputs to pins 2 and 3 provide step and direction instructions to a stepper driver for X motion.
Y and Z similarly. and the CNC4 you board had specific instructions for spindle "on " control. I never got around to varying the spindle speed .
Choosing the pin settings to make X Y and Z movements happen seems intuitive enough .
and spindle relay on is not too hard to grasp in Mach. But pwm and encoder settings are at the moment testing my intellect a bit
I have looked for pin settings for this board but cant find specific ones online .
Which Manual are you referring to Inee? Cant see anythingin the Boxford or Lenze manuals and I dont think I have one specifically for the encoder.
Will explore a bit more .
If someone can hold my hand here and tell me which pin settings to select to get me going , I suspect that things will begin to fall into place and from there I can maybe ask the relevant questions to give me an understanding of what settings I have made .
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31-10-2020 #27
Hi john the boxford manual (will link in a tick
Below is the manual should be for your bob,
MACH3-BL-MACH-V1.1.pdf
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31-10-2020 #28
As far as i can see the index and timing sensor are wired thus .
Pin 1 is Green 10v
Pin2 is Blue sensor output x1
Pin3 is Red sensor output x Many
Pin4 is Yellow 0v com
This was based on pics on your other boxford thread , the pins/ use data is from the boxford manual
The pics i used are below
Regards
Inee
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31-10-2020 #29
I think I may have blown the LEDs
they are labelled as RS 306-061 but no longer supplied by RS an I couldn't find a Datasheet
If it has 10v input I reckoned it would be safe if tried it with a 5v supply but saw no signs of light .
Tried with a 12 v I saw a single tiny flash then no more .
Then I found this data sheet https://www.silicon-ark.co.uk/datash...-datasheet.pdf
I am suspecting I may have zapped it with too much reverse voltage. could that be ??
Where to I go for replacements ? Can I select ones which would be oK with the voltages I have available , ie 12 v or 5 v
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31-10-2020 #30
John - firstly, these are usually infra-red, so it may well have been illuminated even if you couldn't see it (hint - you can often get a mobile phone camera live-view to witness IR LEDs).
Reverse voltage?, yup, a good way to fry an LED.
The good thing is these are generally fairly standard devices, although pin-outs may vary. And drive voltages?, can be pretty much whatever you need. I'll assume you've not hit this before otherwise you'd not be asking.. Take the supply voltage, and subtract the forward voltage drop of the LED. Then divide that by your chosen forward current. That gives the value of a resistor to place in series with the LED for it to operate at that voltage. That Datasheet indicated a max forward current of 40mA - that's an absolute max rating, a rough rule of thumb is around 10mA.
So, if you're trying to drive at 5V, and the Forward Voltage is 1.8V, with a Forward current of 10mA (0.01A), that's (5.0-1.8)/0.01 = 320 Ohms, nearest easy found value is 330 Ohms. If you want to drive at 12V, then (12.0-1.8)/0.01 = 1020 Ohms, nearest easy value = 1000 Ohms (1k).
Whichever resister value you calculate, you place the resistor in series with the LED then drive that from the DC supply.
Note, its generally considered unhealthy to reverse bias an LED - they go pop at quite a low reverse voltage. Even if they don't pop, then can be significantly degraded.
Amazon sell reflective opto-couplers - there's generally not a huge difference in the 4-pin devices (2 pins for the LED, 2 pins generally for a photo transistor). They should be pretty much interchangeable.
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