Newbie Sieg X3 and or Warco WM18 CNC conversions

[Doddy]

4. Some drivers will take AC or DC supplies (nothing special - they just have a rectifier to take whatever and make sure its DC internally. Normally there's a smallish cap inside to smooth the rectified supply). With these - just get a suitably rated transformer and present the secondary winding to the driver. If you have only a DC driver, then you need to provide the rectification and smoothing cap yourself. It's slightly more complex, and adds £10-£20 to the build, and more space is required, but it's still straightforward. AndyUK provides some excellent documentation of his builds here - by all means follow those, but feel free to ask any questions - particularly PSUs there's not a whole lot of complexity required here, and ask any 5 of us, and you'll get 6 different opinions :)

5. On each axis I used a BK bearing block at the drive-end (integral AC bearings). On X I used the existing brass bush to support the end of the screw - simply, it was there and it fit perfectly well. On Y, I left the free-end floating (it's only something like 25cm in length, and there wasn't easy space under the bed to mount a block. Similarly on Z, left the end of that floating - plenty of space in this case but there didn't appear to be much need to support the end of the Z screw. Others may have different views on this.



Example on Y.

6. Yeah, jump in, what have you to lose?