Bit of a flood ! And a couple of questions.

[Ollie78]

Hello

I have not been on here much for a while ( largely because my machine has been working very well ).

However I discovered yesterday that i have had a burst pipe in my workshop upstairs which has of course made its way through to the downstairs...

Hence this !


Excuse the general disatrous shape of the workshop I had just abandonned ship and then started moving stuff when I discovered the flood.

Can`t seem to rotate images but you get the idea.

It could have been leaking for a few days, the guy in the next unit called to tell me because it was going into his side otherwise I wouldn`t have noticed till today.

So, of course, there is going to need to be a bit of a rebuild situation to say the least.
The top is bending like a banana, I have no idea if any of the electronics or the PC will work though some bits have escaped full monsoon (drying the PC out in front of the fire right now).

I am thinking now may be the time to sort out a few things I have not had the opportunity to do previously.

Firstly, I have two noisy bearings and so will replace the bk/bf blocks, the ballscrews are 25mm but turned down to 15mm at the fixed end and 15mm ( threaded part ) then 12m by the coupler. So it looks like I need BK15 and BF15 blocks, is this correct ?

While I was looking at it I thought maybe replace the ballnut as I have to take it apart quite a bit anyway but I can see no markings at all on the part and I wonder how to make sure to get the right ones regarding pitch etc.

This is it



I put a ruler on it but not sure exactly where to measure to and from.



Any ideas ?

Secondly, I plan to do drag chains and redo the wiring and add back in the limit switches I removed.
I would like to use some kind of connectors at either end, at the moment everything is chocolate blocks or just wired straight in.
I like the type of thing found in car connections like the deutsch connectors or that kind of thing. I know its not strictly needed but would make it easier for future maintanance is there a go to connector for this.

Thirdly. I would really like to do a better control cabinet, its currently in a pc case and at this time my VFD is separate and not wired to the BOB which I keep meaning to do.
I had a look at this from cnc drive and thought it a pretty neat solution ( I already run UCCNC and there eth 300 controller which I like ).

http://shop.cncdrive.com/index.php?productID=1090

Does it represent good value, (assuming I can actually get one shipped here after the stupidity of brexit )?

I am not particularly good at electronics but think I could probably do a similar setup myself but it would take me ages and I would be worried about cocking it up, unless I had very thorough instructions to follow.
Any alternatives.?

Thanks

Ollie

[routerdriver]

I used these to connect my controller to the machine.



I understand they will handle up to 120 volts and can be had with quite a range of pins from 2 to 10.I didn't find them the easiest of things to solder cables to,but it can be done.Seek out GX16 aircraft plugs for more information.

[Voicecoil]

I used these to connect my controller to the machine.



I understand they will handle up to 120 volts and can be had with quite a range of pins from 2 to 10.I didn't find them the easiest of things to solder cables to,but it can be done.Seek out GX16 aircraft plugs for more information.

I ended up using GX20 connectors - not quite so easy to find, but very similar and they have a bit bigger cable inlet size, which I found useful when using screened (CY) cable. And I've got to that point in life when I'm fed up with anything fiddly! Next time it might even be GX25's - or dip into my pocket and get some Amphenols.

[Ollie78]

Cheers routerdriver thats a great start.

Was hoping to avoid soldering, I guess I could have a crack at it.

Been using these around the house https://www.wago.com/gb/electrical-i...connectors/221
Very easy to attach.

Ollie

[Clive S]

Thirdly. I would really like to do a better control cabinet, its currently in a pc case and at this time my VFD is separate and not wired to the BOB which I keep meaning to do.
I had a look at this from cnc drive and thought it a pretty neat solution ( I already run UCCNC and there eth 300 controller which I like ).

I believe that Dean Jazzcnc is stocking these now up in PG tips country

[JAZZCNC]

I believe that Dean Jazzcnc is stocking these now up in PG tips country

Give up man, no self-respecting Yorkshireman would dunk is Hobknob in that pig piss, it's Yorkshire tea or nothing.

[JAZZCNC]

Firstly, I have two noisy bearings and so will replace the bk/bf blocks, the ballscrews are 25mm but turned down to 15mm at the fixed end and 15mm ( threaded part ) then 12m by the coupler. So it looks like I need BK15 and BF15 blocks, is this correct ?

Yes that's correct, 15mm is the ID of the bearing and usually with M15 x 1 thread with coupler portion being 12mm OD.

While I was looking at it I thought maybe replace the ballnut as I have to take it apart quite a bit anyway but I can see no markings at all on the part and I wonder how to make sure to get the right ones regarding pitch etc.

I put a ruler on it but not sure exactly where to measure to and from.

Any ideas ?

First putting a ruler against alone won't always tell you the pitch because it could be a multistart thread. So for instance while the distance between threads is say 5mm which is what yours looks like, there could be 2 starts (threads) so this is double making it 10mm pitch. If you look at the end you'll see if there are two separate threads.

Now if you didn't have any backlash then I wouldn't go trying to swap the nut for a different one because if it's a Chinese ballscrew, which it looks like it is, then you might struggle to find one that matches and end up with more backlash.
If it's not worn then I would just strip it, clean and re-grease, if it's got a little backlash you could try fitting new balls or a couple of oversize balls to preload it a little.

Secondly, I plan to do drag chains and redo the wiring and add back in the limit switches I removed.
I would like to use some kind of connectors at either end, at the moment everything is chocolate blocks or just wired straight in.
I like the type of thing found in car connections like the deutsch connectors or that kind of thing. I know its not strictly needed but would make it easier for future maintanance is there a go to connector for this.

Aviation connectros are the most commonly used but they are fiddly things to solder and easily got wrong. I've seen many drives blown up because of poor connections shorting on the sides.
Like you say they are convinient for removing at later date or moving the machine around but they also open up a potential problem area as they get old and strained.
I fit them them on machines I build when required, for instance when access is poor and control box or machine as to be taken in separate pieces, but if I'm honest I'm not a fan and always try to avoid them if possible as it just introduces a potential problem.

Thirdly. I would really like to do a better control cabinet, its currently in a pc case and at this time my VFD is separate and not wired to the BOB which I keep meaning to do.
I had a look at this from cnc drive and thought it a pretty neat solution ( I already run UCCNC and there eth 300 controller which I like ).

Does it represent good value, (assuming I can actually get one shipped here after the stupidity of brexit )?

I am not particularly good at electronics but think I could probably do a similar setup myself but it would take me ages and I would be worried about cocking it up, unless I had very thorough instructions to follow.
Any alternatives.?

As it happens I can help you here if you want a box building and I'm just about to build the exact same thing for someone.
I now stock CNC Drive components and have both the AXBB-E and UC300 in stock along with wireless pendants and tool touch off plates.
I also stock energy chain and other components like Water cooled Spindles, Closed loop stepper sets, etc, that I fit to machines I build. I don't normally stock BK15 bearings but as it happens I do have a couple of sets that I ordered for a job but never used so can help you out there as well.

Drop me a PM if you decide you'd rather have a box built than DIY or if you need any components I stock.

[Ollie78]

Thanks everyone.

Jazzcnc, first I must agree that Yorkshire tea is the only proper tea, and I am a southerner too.

Good to know that I measured the ends of the ballscrews right at least.

With the ballnuts, I don`t think I have actually been having any problems with backlash and I am pretty sure the clicky noise is coming from the BK blocks particularly on the Y axis. I am only butchering wood with it at the moment.
So perhaps I will leave them alone, I was just thinking of doing it because I will be doing the ends anyway. I have a vison of loosing many tiny ballbearings over the floor if I try to dismantle them.

I will send you a PM.

Thanks

Ollie

[JAZZCNC]

With the ballnuts, I don`t think I have actually been having any problems with backlash and I am pretty sure the clicky noise is coming from the BK blocks particularly on the Y axis. I am only butchering wood with it at the moment.
So perhaps I will leave them alone, I was just thinking of doing it because I will be doing the ends anyway. I have a vison of loosing many tiny ballbearings over the floor if I try to dismantle them.

In that case, then leave them alone and just grease the nut.

However, if you do decide to remove the ball-nut don't just unwind it from the screw otherwise you will dump the balls all over the floor. The correct way is to make a tube or mandrel the same size as the screw base thread and wind the nut onto this. Then you can take this to a large tray and remove the mandrel letting the balls fall into the tray. Then you do the same in reverse, re-build the nut onto the mandrel and re-fit the nut onto the screw by winding it off the mandrel.

[Kitwn]

You have my sympathy re the flood, that's quite a mess. The electronics might well survive if everything was switched off before it got wet. Just be very careful to ensure it's completely dry, including inside all the nooks and crannies before trying to power it up again. a hairdryer or (not too) hot air gun might help here along with a lot of patience.
I would say 'leave outside in the warm sunshine and gentle breeze to dry' but it isn't the middle of summer right now in Swindon.