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20-05-2021 #11
Hi Jazzcnc, thanks for the detailed reply
More things to consider!
I keep thinking of different ways of doing things and then over complicate the design trying to do everything, I keep having to pull myself back to the original concepts and need. The machine will be for cutting mainly wood accurately with the occasional plastic, CF and aluminium. I have based the design on what I currently use which is a Stepcraft D600, its a nice little machine but definitely for the hobbyist, leadscrews and rollers on extrusion. This has been a great tool to get in to CNC / machining but its maintenance and lack of accuracy is now an issue.This machine is the next step and instead of just buying a new machine I thought it would be more interesting to design and make my own. (and cheaper).
I am using my Stepcraft to make the parts so I am limited in what I can do hence the design attempts to use as many off the shelf components and the use of a Kress and KK01 BOB as I already have a UCCNC UC100 controller and license.
I will upgrade to 15 mm gantry sides and z axis and look at the spindle / controller options / closed loop steppers although these might be a version 2 upgrade once I can sell the Stepcraft.
Thanks for the feedback
Ian
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20-05-2021 #12
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02-06-2021 #13
Some minor updates, I have decided to use proximity sensors instead of mechanical switches for the limits / homing so Slight change to each axis to have mounting holes
I have also increased the length of the z axis rails to allow a accommodate 4 blocks and give me ~ 110 mm travel, and redesigned the spindle mounting plate to allow access to the grease nipple on z axis
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In picture 1 if the is the hole for the home switch it might be better to not hit it end on but have the target passing across the face.
They tend to get crunched the way you have it...Clive
The more you know, The better you know, How little you know
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02-06-2021 #15
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02-06-2021 #16
Cheers for the info, I have only ever used mechanical limit / home switches, I will have a think how I can mount them
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I have proximity switches mounted inline - can confirm crunching....
Definitely mount the switches at 90 degrees / not in the path so a crash / run away cannot damage them.
Use physical stops to prevent running off the end of axis.
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03-06-2021 #18
I have the option of using mechanical switches that have enough travel to react in time to a crash / runaway so I will use them but have a play with the proximity switches to learn how they work, every day is a school day!
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03-06-2021 #19
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03-06-2021 #20
Proximity switches are much better, even the cheap ones, than mechanical switches unless you buy expensive high-quality mechanical switches.
They react faster and are more reliable, a long time ago I did a test showing the repeatability of the cheap proximity switches to show how repeatable they are, it's on youtube and this forum somewhere. But since that time I have literally fit 1000's to machines I build and I have very few issues, probably 2-3 in every 100 will arrive faulty and I rarely have any fail when in use on the machine, I can't remember the last time I had one fail on a machine.
However, everyone I've fit slides by the target rather than face on. They sense and repeat just fine when sliding past the target and you don't risk crunching them if crashing the machine at high feeds where inertia will cause overtravel even though the switch reacted quick enough.-use common sense, if you lack it, there is no software to help that.
Email: [email protected]
Web site: www.jazzcnc.co.uk
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