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  1. #11
    Soyb's Avatar
    Lives in Leominster, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 27-12-2023 Has been a member for 2-3 years. Has a total post count of 38. Received thanks 5 times, giving thanks to others 2 times.
    Hi Jazzcnc, thanks for the detailed reply

    More things to consider!

    I keep thinking of different ways of doing things and then over complicate the design trying to do everything, I keep having to pull myself back to the original concepts and need. The machine will be for cutting mainly wood accurately with the occasional plastic, CF and aluminium. I have based the design on what I currently use which is a Stepcraft D600, its a nice little machine but definitely for the hobbyist, leadscrews and rollers on extrusion. This has been a great tool to get in to CNC / machining but its maintenance and lack of accuracy is now an issue.This machine is the next step and instead of just buying a new machine I thought it would be more interesting to design and make my own. (and cheaper).

    I am using my Stepcraft to make the parts so I am limited in what I can do hence the design attempts to use as many off the shelf components and the use of a Kress and KK01 BOB as I already have a UCCNC UC100 controller and license.

    I will upgrade to 15 mm gantry sides and z axis and look at the spindle / controller options / closed loop steppers although these might be a version 2 upgrade once I can sell the Stepcraft.

    Thanks for the feedback

    Ian

  2. #12
    Soyb's Avatar
    Lives in Leominster, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 27-12-2023 Has been a member for 2-3 years. Has a total post count of 38. Received thanks 5 times, giving thanks to others 2 times.
    Added design for housing electronics under the machine, I am going to put a drag chain from the gantry ballscrew to the electronics.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  3. #13
    Soyb's Avatar
    Lives in Leominster, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 27-12-2023 Has been a member for 2-3 years. Has a total post count of 38. Received thanks 5 times, giving thanks to others 2 times.
    Some minor updates, I have decided to use proximity sensors instead of mechanical switches for the limits / homing so Slight change to each axis to have mounting holes
    Click image for larger version. 

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    I have also increased the length of the z axis rails to allow a accommodate 4 blocks and give me ~ 110 mm travel, and redesigned the spindle mounting plate to allow access to the grease nipple on z axis

    Click image for larger version. 

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  4. #14
    In picture 1 if the is the hole for the home switch it might be better to not hit it end on but have the target passing across the face.

    They tend to get crunched the way you have it.
    ..Clive
    The more you know, The better you know, How little you know

  5. #15
    Soyb's Avatar
    Lives in Leominster, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 27-12-2023 Has been a member for 2-3 years. Has a total post count of 38. Received thanks 5 times, giving thanks to others 2 times.
    Started the build today, small steps, 3d printed the feet and stuck rubber pads on the bottom

    Click image for larger version. 

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  6. #16
    Soyb's Avatar
    Lives in Leominster, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 27-12-2023 Has been a member for 2-3 years. Has a total post count of 38. Received thanks 5 times, giving thanks to others 2 times.
    Cheers for the info, I have only ever used mechanical limit / home switches, I will have a think how I can mount them

  7. #17
    I have proximity switches mounted inline - can confirm crunching....

    Definitely mount the switches at 90 degrees / not in the path so a crash / run away cannot damage them.

    Use physical stops to prevent running off the end of axis.

  8. #18
    Soyb's Avatar
    Lives in Leominster, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 27-12-2023 Has been a member for 2-3 years. Has a total post count of 38. Received thanks 5 times, giving thanks to others 2 times.
    I have the option of using mechanical switches that have enough travel to react in time to a crash / runaway so I will use them but have a play with the proximity switches to learn how they work, every day is a school day!

  9. #19
    Soyb's Avatar
    Lives in Leominster, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 27-12-2023 Has been a member for 2-3 years. Has a total post count of 38. Received thanks 5 times, giving thanks to others 2 times.
    Cross Beams finished, starting on feet. Once I have the base frame assembled I will start on a test setup of the electronics so I can drive the twin Y axis and limit switchesClick image for larger version. 

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  10. #20
    Quote Originally Posted by Soyb View Post
    I have the option of using mechanical switches that have enough travel to react in time to a crash / runaway so I will use them but have a play with the proximity switches to learn how they work, every day is a school day!
    Proximity switches are much better, even the cheap ones, than mechanical switches unless you buy expensive high-quality mechanical switches.
    They react faster and are more reliable, a long time ago I did a test showing the repeatability of the cheap proximity switches to show how repeatable they are, it's on youtube and this forum somewhere. But since that time I have literally fit 1000's to machines I build and I have very few issues, probably 2-3 in every 100 will arrive faulty and I rarely have any fail when in use on the machine, I can't remember the last time I had one fail on a machine.
    However, everyone I've fit slides by the target rather than face on. They sense and repeat just fine when sliding past the target and you don't risk crunching them if crashing the machine at high feeds where inertia will cause overtravel even though the switch reacted quick enough.
    -use common sense, if you lack it, there is no software to help that.

    Email: [email protected]

    Web site: www.jazzcnc.co.uk

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