Ballscrew & Linear Rail Kit - Any Good

[A_Camera]

Hi gents

I am not sure if i will be using the end bits with the bearings in, as they might not seat within the aluminium profile?

The 1605 BK/BF bearing holders fit exactly (but not perfectly) into the 45 mm gaps of 45x90 extrusions if you want to install them across in two T-nut tracks using 6 mm screws, but you must consider the ball nut because that will need some spacer or other solution, due to the fact that the HGR20 + HGH20 is 30mm high while the ball nut flange demands 45mm...



...or 50mm if it is turned 90° high from the bottom.



You can solve that in many ways, but it must be solved somehow. I think you will see that more clearly once you get the stuff. It's easier when you have something in front of you to look at than just CAD drawings or words.

[WoodKnot]

The 1605 BK/BF bearing holders fit exactly (but not perfectly) into the 45 mm gaps of 45x90 extrusions if you want to install them across in two T-nut tracks using 6 mm screws, but you must consider the ball nut because that will need some spacer or other solution, due to the fact that the HGR20 + HGH20 is 30mm high while the ball nut flange demands 45mm...



...or 50mm if it is turned 90° high from the bottom.



You can solve that in many ways, but it must be solved somehow. I think you will see that more clearly once you get the stuff. It's easier when you have something in front of you to look at than just CAD drawings or words.

Thanks A Camera

I had noticed that all the converted ones that i had viewed that they had to create some sort of spacer block, but yes, i was waiting for the arrival of the parts, i think holistically first, so then have to work backwards to get all the joined up bits to work.

So i see what i want to achieve and how the look is perceived in my minds eye, then have to work backwards to achieve what i am seeing.

My issue is that i don't work to plans and do everything 'off the cuff' sort of speak, which can be a bit problematic!

WoodKnot

[A_Camera]

Thanks A Camera

You're welcome.

I had noticed that all the converted ones that i had viewed that they had to create some sort of spacer block, but yes, i was waiting for the arrival of the parts, i think holistically first, so then have to work backwards to get all the joined up bits to work.

Yes, some sort of spacing or other solution is necessary. It is definitely easier to figure out a solution once you have them in front of you, especially if you are not used to read mechanical drawings, but also if you are open to changes and can divert from your own design.

So i see what i want to achieve and how the look is perceived in my minds eye, then have to work backwards to achieve what i am seeing.

My issue is that i don't work to plans and do everything 'off the cuff' sort of speak, which can be a bit problematic!

WoodKnot

I also don't spend hours and weeks in front of a computer to CAD a machine. I think that's a lot of wasted time, unless you want to reproduce and sell those things. Every new machine is a prototype. I make sketches using good old pencil and paper, but even those are free hand sketches, rarely use a ruler for drawing. It's enough for me to have the design sketched and the details in my head. Of course, this results in a few extra holes, but so what...

Anyway, I received this today:



So far so good. What's funny is that the kit included four carriages. I have no idea how they are thinking... 200mm rails and four of those means basically no movement at all or maximum 46mm. I knew this when I ordered, I only need one on each rail, but this was the best price, so now I have two spares. BTW, even this BK feels fine to me, and I still think it is best to leave it as it is and replace the bearings with AC once these are worn out, if they ever will before I die or stop using it.

[WoodKnot]

So far so good. What's funny is that the kit included four carriages. I have no idea how they are thinking... 200mm rails and four of those means basically no movement at all or maximum 46mm. I knew this when I ordered, I only need one on each rail, but this was the best price, so now I have two spares. BTW, even this BK feels fine to me, and I still think it is best to leave it as it is and replace the bearings with AC once these are worn out, if they ever will before I die or stop using it.

They suggest 250mm but went for the stock 300mm, I suppose better to have greater travel then less?

[A_Camera]

They suggest 250mm but went for the stock 300mm, I suppose better to have greater travel then less?

This is a kit with 250mm ballscrew and 200mm rails. I need about 80mm motion that's why I chose this kit.

[WoodKnot]

This is a kit with 250mm ballscrew and 200mm rails. I need about 80mm motion that's why I chose this kit.

I presume A Camera that you can just set the limit switches on the Z axis to reduce the amount of required travel anyway

[A_Camera]

I presume A Camera that you can just set the limit switches on the Z axis to reduce the amount of required travel anyway

This is for my micro lathe experimental project and will be used as X axis. It's an experiment only, but movement is short since the chuck is only 100mm, so I figure 80mm is enough. I will never need to make anything with 160mm diameter anyway. Initially it won't have any steppers on the axes, so no need for limit switch. My CNC Z has limit switches but only the upper one is ever triggered. That is different, there I have 160mm Z clearance and 140mm movement, so it is much larger and wider than this is going to be.