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  1. #11
    Ah OK I figured that but going from my old drawing I think I had the frame at 4mm and then had the beams that the linear rails and ball screws being attached to at 10mm thick.

  2. #12
    I added steel strips to the faces where the rails bolt on - good for fixing but no damping effect, I suspect.

  3. #13
    Sand is your friend for dampening but wouldn't surprise me if that's gone up 5 times the price too lol.

  4. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by reefy86 View Post
    Sand is your friend for dampening but wouldn't surprise me if that's gone up 5 times the price too lol.
    I've wondered if foam concrete would do the trick. Less weight and the air component of the mix is relatively inexpensive.

    Kit
    An optimist says the glass is half full, a pessimist says the glass is half empty, an engineer says you're using the wrong sized glass.

  5. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by Kitwn View Post
    I've wondered if foam concrete would do the trick. Less weight and the air component of the mix is relatively inexpensive.

    Kit
    My late next-door neighbour was a builder. His trick (and I suspect a trick common in the trade) was to give a good squirt of washing-up liquid into the compo mixer. It foamed up the mortar and made it lighter to handle and slippier off the trowel.

    Of course for filling beams you really need high density, low elasticity, acoustic decoupling air.

  6. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by cropwell View Post
    My late next-door neighbour was a builder. His trick (and I suspect a trick common in the trade) was to give a good squirt of washing-up liquid into the compo mixer. It foamed up the mortar and made it lighter to handle and slippier off the trowel.

    Of course for filling beams you really need high density, low elasticity, acoustic decoupling air.
    Making foam concrete the DIY way is basically taking that a step further. I've been looking at it for possibly making raised garden beds. Suggesting it for damping a machine is primarily for the practicality of not being too heavy for one person to handle on their own, which is a consideration for all of my construction work.

    Kit
    An optimist says the glass is half full, a pessimist says the glass is half empty, an engineer says you're using the wrong sized glass.

  7. #17
    Just got a quote from my local and they only do 7.5 meter lengths and for 80x80 5mm thick works out at £85 for 3 meters

  8. #18
    Quote Originally Posted by reefy86 View Post
    Just got a quote from my local and they only do 7.5 meter lengths and for 80x80 5mm thick works out at £85 for 3 meters
    Well, that's half the price of the other place so you are already in front.
    -use common sense, if you lack it, there is no software to help that.

    Email: [email protected]

    Web site: www.jazzcnc.co.uk

  9. #19
    More happy with the 5mm then the 4mm. Still worth filling with sand or is there an alternative way now?

  10. #20
    Quote Originally Posted by reefy86 View Post
    More happy with the 5mm then the 4mm. Still worth filling with sand or is there an alternative way now?
    Sands ok but only to a point, depends on what you want the machine for.? If you're wanting to cut steel then your probably building the wrong machine with the wrong materials.?
    If it's for cutting wood and light aluminium work then I wouldn't waste your time and mess it makes, just use thicker material with plenty of bracing.
    -use common sense, if you lack it, there is no software to help that.

    Email: [email protected]

    Web site: www.jazzcnc.co.uk

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