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  1. #41
    Quote Originally Posted by BeagleBrainz View Post
    Or if you want to be really simple, a 4PDT switch. Which would mean a human having to do the change over. Would do even during just testing.
    ...but that is really difficult to find. Of course, it could be done with 2 or even 4 individual switches also.

  2. #42
    Quote Originally Posted by gabi68 View Post
    Sorry to be a pain. I have 4 inputs which need to be changed between. You said I will need Pul+, Dir+ and Ena (unconnected in my case). What should I do with the rest of the wires (Pul-, Dir- and Ena).

    Thank youAttachment 30721
    It is getting difficult to help because I don't know your background and don't have a clue about your wiring or who did the original work, but I'll make a new effort.

    1. If you are sure you NEVER will use the enable signal then you don't have to care about that, so just ignore as it is ignored in your picture.
    2. Check PUL - and DIR - with a DMM, I think those are connected to the same source, so basically you could have only the blue wire connected and from that bridge to PUL -.
    3. In theory, if both your controlling devices share a common signal ground then you don't need to switch that signal, but it is a good engineering practice to do it, so I would definitely switch that also.
    4. This leaves you with three signals to switch and these are the same as PUL + , DIR + and DIR -. Remember that DIR - is bridged to PUL - otherwise it will not work.

    In the end, according to the above, you will need a relay which can switch three signals, but you won't find such relay. They are always made as 1, 2 or 4 (or more) pole relays.

  3. #43
    I wouldn't assume -DIR or -STEP are connected to ground, the output circuit could be a NPN transistor (open collector). So the safest bet would be to put each (for lack of better description signal) on a separate pole.
    Maybe the output circuit of one of the boards can recognize an open circuit, on either the STEP or DIR causing a fault condition.
    The user has provided no circuit diagrams so it is really hard to say which way to jump.

    It would be the same as asking a programmer to design a routine to process a data packet without actually telling them anything about the format of the data packet.

  4. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by A_Camera View Post
    That is only true if he ALWAYS wants to have the stepper energised and always holding. That is not always desirable or even advised. So unless you absolutely certain that he doesn't care about enabling/disabling the driver it is indeed necessary to switch the enable signal also. Regardless of which, there is no harm in switching it, but there can be harm in not switching it.
    If you'd looked at the relevant photo, you would see the Enable on the driver has nothing connected to it, plus there is also the post stating he doesn't want the axis to become disabled to avoid the axis dropping, so connecting the enable is not needed.

    GND is the same as STEP - , DIR - and EN -. It is better to connect those to the same - output as the one providing the control signals. Again, it would do no harm and we know too little about his design and implementation.
    Not on the existing step source, as again, the photo shows differential outputs.
    However I did think about this earlier, as the alternative controller may not have differential outputs, so some thought may be needed in that regard.

    That's why I said that a small signal relay needs to be used, not a contactor. You talk about a contactor which is designed for high voltage and current.
    All relays, apart from specialist relays have minimum switching currents. It is not something that only applies to contactors.
    Good relay manufacturer's will publish the relevant detail in the datasheet.
    Avoiding the rubbish customer service from AluminiumWarehouse since July '13.

  5. #45
    Well, taking your advices I have a relay with appropriate socket on the way
    https://www.rapidonline.com/Relpol-R...-Relay-61-6063
    and I will connect Pul-, Pul+,Dir- and Dir+ and power the relay from a 12V power supply.

    I also bought this fancy button
    https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 .

    The last advice need it is where should I connect the button to make the change of the inputs?

    Thank you
    Gabi

  6. #46
    Quote Originally Posted by BeagleBrainz View Post
    The user has provided no circuit diagrams so it is really hard to say which way to jump.
    Yes, that's the key issue. We are all only guessing. I provided my solution, but yes, other solutions might be needed, we have no idea since we don't have enough information about his design. I was however very clear that the solution I proposed is what I use and it works for me, and I bet you that I could make it work with his driver also.

    There are two documented possible ways of connecting the driver, in one case you bridge all the + to the same and switch all the - signals, the other way is what I am using, which is I think the most commonly used. Basically there is very little difference between them (I know that electrically the difference is huge), and both uses the same principle, but without knowing all the details of his solution it is impossible the say which is right and which is wrong.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DM542 connections.jpg 
Views:	53 
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ID:	30722

  7. #47
    Quote Originally Posted by gabi68 View Post
    Well, taking your advices I have a relay with appropriate socket on the way
    https://www.rapidonline.com/Relpol-R...-Relay-61-6063
    and I will connect Pul-, Pul+,Dir- and Dir+ and power the relay from a 12V power supply.

    I also bought this fancy button
    https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 .

    The last advice need it is where should I connect the button to make the change of the inputs?

    Thank you
    Gabi
    That relay will work just fine, I don't think you will have problems with it. If you switch all four wires then you don't need to care about anything else, just that you connect all the wires right. Good luck.

  8. #48
    Quote Originally Posted by BeagleBrainz View Post
    The user has provided no circuit diagrams so it is really hard to say which way to jump.
    Yes, that's the key issue. We are all only guessing. I provided my solution, but yes, other solutions might be needed, we have no idea since we don't have enough information about his design. I was however very clear that the solution I proposed is what I use and it works for me, and I bet you that I could make it work with his driver also.

    There are two documented possible ways of connecting the driver, in one case you bridge all the + to the same and switch all the - signals, the other way is what I am using, which is I think the most commonly used. Basically there is very little difference between them (I know that electrically the difference is huge), and both uses the same principle, but without knowing all the details of his solution it is impossible the say which is right and which is wrong.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DM542 connections.jpg 
Views:	53 
Size:	131.3 KB 
ID:	30722

  9. #49
    Quote Originally Posted by A_Camera View Post
    That relay will work just fine, I don't think you will have problems with it. If you switch all four wires then you don't need to care about anything else, just that you connect all the wires right. Good luck.
    How should I connect the button, please?

  10. #50

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