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  1. #1
    Hi All

    I was hoping some kind member(s) could offer some advice on the total cost to convert one of the chinese 2.7 / 3 milling machines to CNC on X, Y and Z

    I need to understand how much to budget for on top of buying the mill

    Thanks in anticipation

    Monty

  2. #2
    Hi Monty,
    I went through this sometime ago, and IMO, don't bother - buy a CNC setup. Most 'manual' mills need so much work done to them to get them fit for CNC work, that the cost goes skyhigh. Usually the small mils have substantial axis backlash, so may need to be fitted with ballscrews - not cheap, because it may also need new bearings fitted, so machining work necessary. Then you need the steppers or servos to drive the axes - more cost, then add the cost of the controller system, and it starts getting crazy. A good CNC system isn't cheap, but still a better option than building one (unless you want to do it for fun!). A new CNC machine will come with a guarantee, you can be reasonably certain it will perform as specified, and you won't be involved in trying to build one for months (or years..:!).
    That said, there is stuff on the web about building your own, so a bit of searching might help you work out what is to be done - unfortunately not always giving costs.

  3. #3
    Thanks for the response - what does an entry level machine cost. I did look at this but the numbers seamed out of reach for me

    I was considering 2k for the machine and £1500 for the conversion but still trying to cost all the parts needed to convert a machine and control it. Some of the want to do a conversion is for fun but also learning something new (if that makes sense)

    Cheers

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by Monty_UK View Post
    Thanks for the response - what does an entry level machine cost. I did look at this but the numbers seamed out of reach for me

    I was considering 2k for the machine and £1500 for the conversion but still trying to cost all the parts needed to convert a machine and control it. Some of the want to do a conversion is for fun but also learning something new (if that makes sense)

    Cheers
    If set on doing a conversion then, at 2k get an Amadeal VM32L with R8.
    I would say for 1.5k it is possible to convert it with the right choice of components.

    80-90vdc or 60-70vac toroidal power. Drivers that can take 80vac/110vdc like:
    DM860T drivers https://www.omc-stepperonline.com/di...or-dm860t.html
    and these: X, Y
    https://www.omc-stepperonline.com/ne...m-4-wires.html
    Z,
    https://www.omc-stepperonline.com/ne...m-4-wires.html
    from stepperonline.

    Combination of high voltage and lowish inductance will give good performance.
    For ballscrews it gets trickier. If you can fit them in you want DFU2005 double nut all round (or DFU1605 on x, y if too tight a fit).
    Now, some out there are total crap so watch out.
    Good ones still likely need tweaking on the pre load.

    Make your own bearing mounts, nut mounts, motor mounts and fit with AC bearings. Material cost is the main dilemma here.
    For bearings I use Dunlop AC on my 25 mill, price is good afaic.

    For controller I think a UC400eth, UCSB type breakout board, UCCNC software, and a cheap laptop from ebay, would be the best value.
    I'll look at breakout boards later.


    I converted manual first for x, y. Then used x, y to make z.
    Then re-did x, y.

  5. #5
    Thanks DazP - that is really helpfull information

    Thank you very much :)

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by dazp1976 View Post
    If set on doing a conversion then, at 2k get an Amadeal VM32L with R8.
    I would say for 1.5k it is possible to convert it with the right choice of components.

    80-90vdc or 60-70vac toroidal power. Drivers that can take 80vac/110vdc like:
    DM860T drivers https://www.omc-stepperonline.com/di...or-dm860t.html
    and these: X, Y
    https://www.omc-stepperonline.com/ne...m-4-wires.html
    Z,
    https://www.omc-stepperonline.com/ne...m-4-wires.html
    from stepperonline.

    Combination of high voltage and lowish inductance will give good performance.
    For ballscrews it gets trickier. If you can fit them in you want DFU2005 double nut all round (or DFU1605 on x, y if too tight a fit).
    Now, some out there are total crap so watch out.
    Good ones still likely need tweaking on the pre load.

    Make your own bearing mounts, nut mounts, motor mounts and fit with AC bearings. Material cost is the main dilemma here.
    For bearings I use Dunlop AC on my 25 mill, price is good afaic.

    For controller I think a UC400eth, UCSB type breakout board, UCCNC software, and a cheap laptop from ebay, would be the best value.
    I'll look at breakout boards later.


    I converted manual first for x, y. Then used x, y to make z.
    Then re-did x, y.
    Is there a make for the ball screws and nuts you would recommend as suitable ?

  7. #7
    Hi Monty,
    All good advice from Daz, and I think he has put the cost issue nicely in proportion. My thinking tends towards the practical use of the machine. I have nothing against building a machine for fun, but would say the end-purpose of such a machine is to use it to build something, so why spend a lot of money on converting a manual machine with all its possible pitfalls?. As Daz says, things like ballscrews can be problematic, and if they let you down, then its virtually a complete loss, but on a complete machine, you can go back to the manufacturer. This is why I suggest get a complete machine, and spend what money you have left on making something with it. I don't know how much experience you have with this kind of machine, but I found that it was only after some time did I understand what I actually needed the machines to do, which led to subsequent modifications.

    You mention an 'entry-level' machine - i assume by this you mean something fairly simple and cheap. In general this means the range of 'chinese-type' clones these days, such as the Sieg series - all reasonable machines for the price, but they will be costly to upgrade to CNC, because you will probably have to change most things except the main castings. Again Daz has indicated the scale of this. But its your choice at the end of the day - just have fun doing it.

  8. #8
    Muzzer's Avatar
    Lives in Lytham St. Annes, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 13 Hours Ago Has been a member for 6-7 years. Has a total post count of 412. Received thanks 59 times, giving thanks to others 10 times.
    dazp - when you say "AC" bearings, what do you mean by that - are you referring to the seals? To minimise the backlash you presumably used back to back or double row bearings?

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by Keithw View Post
    Hi Monty,
    All good advice from Daz, and I think he has put the cost issue nicely in proportion. My thinking tends towards the practical use of the machine. I have nothing against building a machine for fun, but would say the end-purpose of such a machine is to use it to build something, so why spend a lot of money on converting a manual machine with all its possible pitfalls?. As Daz says, things like ballscrews can be problematic, and if they let you down, then its virtually a complete loss, but on a complete machine, you can go back to the manufacturer. This is why I suggest get a complete machine, and spend what money you have left on making something with it. I don't know how much experience you have with this kind of machine, but I found that it was only after some time did I understand what I actually needed the machines to do, which led to subsequent modifications.

    You mention an 'entry-level' machine - i assume by this you mean something fairly simple and cheap. In general this means the range of 'chinese-type' clones these days, such as the Sieg series - all reasonable machines for the price, but they will be costly to upgrade to CNC, because you will probably have to change most things except the main castings. Again Daz has indicated the scale of this. But its your choice at the end of the day - just have fun doing it.
    Hi Keith

    First of all thanks for responding it's very much appreciated

    I am limited on budget but still wanted to get the best I can for my money. You mention about buying a machine and using what I have left for making things - I was considering this to cost around £3500 in total plus time obviously. I have searched CNC machines but other than old second hand ex industrial I haven't found anything anywhere close to what I have to spend.

    I'm a time served engineer trained the old way on basic machies but I covered a lot of CNC in later years (I'm 55)

    If there is something in this price bracket I'd be very interested to look at one



    Thanks agian

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by Muzzer View Post
    dazp - when you say "AC" bearings, what do you mean by that - are you referring to the seals? To minimise the backlash you presumably used back to back or double row bearings?
    Angular Contact.

    I made my own bearing blocks (23mm thick with 2mm wide internal ridge) from 1 inch alloy stock.
    Fitted 2x 7201-B-2RS in each for use on 1605 screws. Back to Back.
    Adjusted preload on DFU with bits of 0.01mm thick alu foil between the nuts.

    These are the screws and seller I used on x,y,z
    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/263083205...4AAOSwal5YEjRE
    (I think I got a slightly shorter 700mm one for z)
    Haven't tried their 2005 ones. My 25 mill was fine with all 1605.
    Last edited by dazp1976; 20-01-2022 at 08:55 PM.

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