Thread: Hi All - First foray into CNC
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02-04-2023 #4
Welcome Ian.
Software is a tricky one. It very much depends on use case - I tend do do the more woodworky / inlays type projects and use Vectric Aspire 95% of the time. They've now split the product line up, so Vectric Cut 2D is probably what I'd suggest you try.
The thing I like about their software is simplicity, and how many user guides and demos there are on YouTube and the like, a mix of both employees demonstrating the software with projects, and hobby users talking you through theirs.
The other very popular route is to go with a fully featured CAD/CAM package like fusion 360. Lots of YouTube resources on this one. I believe it's also free / cheap for hobby use, but I don't get on well with it myself!
Bits wise, I tend to get mine from Shop-apt in Glasgow after a recommendation on here. The "Routing/Engraving" section of the website is where I visit. Not the cheapest, but very high quality tools with a wide selection. Bear in mind, I'm just a hobby user, but the following is what I've found works for me:
For inlays I tend to use small sharp angle V bits, 3mm dia 30 degree carbide with a point tip. The smaller angle also allows you to get deeper inlays, but for larger projects or engraved writing on signs, I'd use a 60 (4mm dia) or 90 degree (6mm dia). If you want an example project, in my build thread (link below) bottom of page 20 has some inlaid toy blocks.
For general wood cutting, again depends on the project and species. Plywood I use compression bits (Up/Down cut) but will otherwise tend towards down cutting bits in hardwood. Again, 4-6mm are my most commonly used.
For aluminium and plastics (not sure why I use it for both...) I tend towards single flute up cut bits. Try to keep the flute length down to a minimum here, as any extra stick out ruins stiffness at hobby level.
For 3D work in wood and metal, get yourself a set of ball nose endmills. I just grabbed some off Amazon to play with. Tapered ball nose bits if you want to go deep.
Finally, utility bits. You might want a surfacing bit for when you've got to surface the machine bed or a large flat area to do. I also have a few general 1/2" router bits for really rough work.
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