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  1. #1
    mc

    Thanks for taking the time to reply and your power calculations.

    I contacted motorsandinverters and quized them about the 380V on the motor plate and they said a 220V inverter drive would not work with the motor, they offered a static converter @ £1100+VAT and said that would do but from what i understand as static converter supplies 2 phases, and the proper way to do it is with a rotary converter. so back to square one.

    If i took some readings of the original single phase motor would you be able to determin which of the coils is damaged, and if the low speed coils are OK i could disconnect the high speed coils from the switch.

    The motor actually run OK it was just the fact that it was getting hot that made me investigate.

  2. #2

  3. #3
    Found this on Aliexpress
    the video shows the chappy with a meter 220v input and outputting 410V so should be good to go, the feedback is good as well, downside being the month or so shipping plus my last purchase from Ali never arrived.would be nice to put this disaster to bed.
    Kindest Regards
    Mike
    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005...d=CBSN0q3HLTrF

  4. #4
    John/MC
    Hi Guys
    Just an update on my lack of progress, ordered the VFD/screened cable/Fan/Potentiometer from Aliexpress.
    When I had a look @ the manual for the VFD it stated that it required a 5K Potentiometer (I had ordered a 10K) so had to order a new one, tried to do something similar to Clough42 (James on YouTube) so sourced a breaker and fuse holder off e-bay. Had a problem trying to secure the secondhand 3 phase motor due to the strange mounting arrangement, but as luck would have it the motor end covers off the single phase motor actually fit the main body of the 3 phase motor so one job sorted. Not having much of a clue regarding the fuse requirements I got a couple of 10A and 20A Quick Blow fuses, pottered around making the cables up and eventually got round to connecting everything up to the high speed windings. Turned on the power and the fuse holder illuminated red then the fuse (10A) blew, tried another 10A same/same.
    Installed a 20A this time the red light on the fuse was not illuminated wound up the potentiometer and the motor actually ran(now @ 50 Hz) the problem was that it didn’t seem to be running as fast as I thought it should, I assumed 50Hz per second should have produced 3000 RPM but I don’t think it’s anywhere near that, and I have no way to check it. Went into the menu and managed to increase the frequency to 200Hz and this did increase the RPM, tried to take it to 300Hz but didn’t run very well and would initially run up but then stalled. Had some problems trying to get it back to factory settings but the factory reset didn't work so could not drop the frequency back to 50Hz, after some time in the setup I managed to get it back to 50Hz, but I don’t know if the VFD is damage or the motor is just US.
    Just by accident itouched the EMI filter body and got a shock, checked the voltage on the filter output and it was about 750V. disconnected the leads to the VFD and the output from the EMI filter was back to 240V. connected back up to the VFD and this time ther was an error code E5VC1. came back after a brew and this time it had an error code of E0C3.
    Had a look today and the error code has cleared and managed to bget the motor running at low speed as before, so it's looking a bit sick.
    Had a look online and seem to have found a motor that might be suitable.
    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/114122298...40ba%7Ciid%3A1
    There are 2 speed options 1500 and 3000 RPM.
    I really only require the 1400 and 2800 of the original motor, what would be your opinion of the best motor to go for, will the 1500 motor be able to go upto 2800, i would be going for 0.75Kw so a bit more power that the original motor.

    Regards
    Mike

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