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11-05-2023 #1
I think these are A4988 based and equivalents are widely available, for example:
https://www.pololu.com/product/1182
or
https://thepihut.com/products/a4988-...-black-edition
There are also nearly identical boards with more recent driver chips such as the DRV8825:
https://www.pololu.com/product/2133
...and I have bought those from UK stockists.
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12-05-2023 #2
Thanks for the response. I think those look good but don’t have enough juice for steppers I have. My steppers run at 4.2A at 1.6V:
https://cnc4you.co.uk/resources/Step...08%201.5Nm.pdf
Your point does open up the question of why I am looking for a routoutcnc driver specifically, and the answer is that I’m playing it safe because I have limited knowledge and limited cash to experiment with. I have a routoutcnc BoB and the routoutcnc drivers attach neatly with screw terminals to pins on the BoB, and I know that they will work together. However, the routoutcnc drivers are in fact underpowered for my new steppers and ideally I'd get beefier drivers.
If you or anyone else could help me understand whether I could use a different, more powerful and more mass-produced driver with my steppers and BoB I’d be very grateful.
This is the routoutcnc driver’s specs:
https://www.tiggyengineering.com/wp-...5ampdriver.pdf
Routoutcnc Breakout Board:
Routoutcnc driver:
As you can see the driver has 8 screw terminals that connect to the BoB:
GND, +VE, 1A, 1B, 2A, 2B, STEP, DIR, EN, GND
Ideally I’d use something like this, which is capable of 4A of current:
https://wiki.dfrobot.com/TB6600_Step...r_SKU__DRI0043
The TB6600 driver has screw terminals labeled:
VND, VCC, A+, A-, B+, B-, EN-, EN+, DIR-, DIR+, PUL-, PUL+
Could I wire the TB6600 to the routoutcnc BoB, even though the screw terminals are labeled differently, and the TB6600 has more of them?
Any help appreciated!
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20-05-2023 #3
I upgraded an old 12v Routout CNC 3 axis box to 4 axis around 10 years ago, the signals are there to run other stepper drivers but after experimenting with some cheap drivers I was lucky enough to get the last new old stock matching board from Routout CNC.
If I found myself in the same situation again I would use a modern buffered breakout board (the Routout CNC breakout board provides no electrical protection either way) an decent drivers as the cost would not amount to much and the results would be far better than the original, the original box is still working for the gentleman who bought my desktop mill around 5 years ago but even he has seen the shortcomings of the low power output and is upgrading to a modern self-build box.You think that's too expensive? You're not a Model Engineer are you? :D
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