Thread: Maximat V10P runs out
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28-12-2023 #21
Thanks, I have messaged the [email protected] , when I have a reply I will post it here!
These pictures show how the gear head is fastened and located to the rails, there are no adjustments.Last edited by Africanimp; 28-12-2023 at 01:33 PM.
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28-12-2023 #22
the first of the 2 pics shows the the 2 scerews i mentioned earlier, looks like these could inpinge on the mounting screw body allowing it to have some slight allignment
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28-12-2023 #23
They are lock screws to the threaded rod they are going into?
But why would the threaded stud have a lock screw ??
Are they there to push the gear head into line, as in the threads are say 8mm diameter in a 9.5mm diameter hole, that would give plenty of adjustment?
Its the same on the other side.
With the nuts removed and a mirror inserted underneath I may see that the stud hole is large enough to allow adjustment?
I will be checking this idea out in the morning!Last edited by Africanimp; 28-12-2023 at 03:58 PM.
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28-12-2023 #24
if it is as i thought, screws on both sides would allow you to scew the headstock. i seem to recall on some of the youtube vids that i have seen that the headstock is located on the V of the bed, there's a few video's that might be worth checking, will have a look in my manual as there is some V10 stuff there
Regards
Mike
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28-12-2023 #25
The base plate is indeed located by the V section but the way I see it the gear head could have adjustment by screws numbered 48, I cannot find a reference to those screws, will it say lock screw or adjustment screw, this is what I need to find now?
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28-12-2023 #26
Before you start trying to realign the headstock, look again at bed twist. No point in using a carpenter's or builder's level, you need a proper machinist's level which is much more sensitive. This topic has been discussed to death over on the model engineer site:
https://www.model-engineer.co.uk/
I suggest you search there, there have been a number of threads on the topic. Ideally the base needs to be at least resting on a level floor if not bolted down, or have levelling screws so it can be sitting on the floor with no distortion. If the base can distort the bed it will. Then use the mounting screws, which may well have a levelling nut arrangement, to adjust the twist out of the bed all the way along. Make final adjustments doing test cuts.
By the way you are not seeing runout, it's taper. Run out is when a shaft is not running concentric.
My Myford Super 7 is mounted on a pressed steel stand which has 4 mounting feet, each one with a screw adjustment for levelling. So I get the top of the stand level using a machinist's level, then adjust the bed mounting bolts to get the top of the bed level transversely at both ends and the middle, turning the level through 180* at each position. Of course it doesn't have to be level as such, just straight, but "level-ness" is a convenient way to do this.
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29-12-2023 #27
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29-12-2023 #28
Thanks for your comments, I am working with what is available, right now the Stabila construction level is what is to hand, if a more accurate one becomes available I will re do the job. I did however find that the tailstock end was out by 4.25mm which was a surprise.
The original Maximate stand is not bolted down, it is loose standing and on a clean concrete surface, its firm and does not rock or move.
Thanks also for the mention of Taper as against my Run Out, bit by bit I am learning!
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29-12-2023 #29
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29-12-2023 #30
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