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04-12-2024 #1
I have ended up buying another HY VFD, (HY02D223B) to drive the 2.2 kw motor I am using in my router table. Have been looking at the manual and some on-line resources to work out what is the best way to set this up, to run as a standalone unit, No mach3 control. I am just wanting to be able to switch it on and control the speed of the motor.
I gone in and set up the VFD, from the manual for basic operations, speed range etc. When plugging in the motor the relay in the VFD isn’t clicking on - so nothing driving the motor. I left pd001 as 0, so I was assuming that the run/stop would control the unit.
Lots of conflicting on-line advice, suggesting moving jumpers and additional wires between the terminals on the controls connectors.
I am obviously being inept- advice/guidance appreciated.
Once I am past this hurdle, I will need some advice on how I set the unit the slowly ramp up the speed on startup, to allow the bearing lubrication to warm up. All stuff that I think is controlled by mach3 currently.
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04-12-2024 #2
I noticed in the HY manual it has pd0140-0142 reserved. Looking at my notes from when I set up the Vfd for the CNC, I had to set the motor current , number of poles, and max speed of the motor. Does reserved mean it’s in some mode that’s not suitable for a high speed spindle, that I need to unset.
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05-12-2024 #3
Hi
It would be helpfull if you could post a link to your manual, so that more knowledgable members than myself might be able to help.
I replaced the single phase motor on my lathe with a reasonable cheap VFD off Aliexpress and with the help of a c ouple of members on the forum i managed to get it sorted.
On my unit there was a terminal on the bottom of the VFD with 5V supply that let you control the motor with via a low voltage with a variable resistor for speed control, i had a requirement for reverse so included a 3 position switch.
Just work your way through the manual and you should be fine.
Regards
Mike
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06-12-2024 #4
Here is a link to the manual as suggested https://bulkman3d.com/wp-content/upl...LBUn5gaPWYtM3_
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07-12-2024 #5
I couldn't open the link above.
A while ago I made a video on wiring up a similar VFD, skip to ~36:00 minutes:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JrIEI-4Iupo&t=1815s
And at 23:50 on this one:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F-pVtiMvjfY&t=1430s
Also this guide (not mine) might help for general setup, but note at the end of the setup they are starting/stopping using Mach3 so look at my videos on doing this with a simple push button.
https://www.kronosrobotics.com/hy02d223b-vfd-type-1
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07-12-2024 #6
pdf attached from the link you couldn't use @routercnc...
.Me
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08-12-2024 #7
Thanks Lee.
Back to the OP - it was a long time ago but I think I used this VFD on my CNC machine, or something very similar.
So if you know the 2.2 kW motor specs you can set up PD003 - PD008 to match, as shown on page 19.
As you say the manual does state set PD001 = 0 to use the built in control panel for on/off and PD002 for the operating frequency (speed) as PD002 = 0 and that should allow you to control the motor using the built in control panel. That is a good place to start to make sure the motor is running OK. You mention not hearing a relay click - here is no relay for the main motor control, it is all done with power electronics so there is no sound (from the VFD) when it starts and stops. There is often a relay inside the unit but this is for auxiliary control.
Once it is running OK you can set PD001 = 1 and PD002 = 1 for external/terminal control, but note on page 10 you also need to move the jumper to connect pins 1 & 2 to allow the external potentiometer in the terminals to work.
To get external control working you then just need to make a simple connection between FOR and COM for forwards, and REV and COM for backwards. This is shown on the diagram on page 12; in their example they have used a push button switch between the terminals FOR and COM. The dotted ellipse is a shield meaning shielded cable but for bench testing you can just use a piece of wire between the terminals. Note the motor will only run when FOR and COM are connected, and stop when they are released. I think I used a latching relay to hold the run until I pressed stop.
For the potentiometer connect as shown on page 12. Connect one side of the pot to VR+10V/5V, one side to ACM (GND) and the middle wiper terminal to VI. Ignore AI. Essentially you are just putting 10V across the potentiometer and the wiper arm is reading off a value between 10V and 0V for the user speed.
Reserved usually just means not used on this model or reserved for future use.
For gentle acceleration try setting PD014 to whatever ramp up time you want in seconds. I'm not sure if you need to tell it to use PD014 (accel time 1) or that is a default.
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12-12-2024 #8
Sorry for the delay in responding, life got in the way. It looks like I needed to move the jumper across to get it to work off the control panel. Not sure that the pot on the control panel is controlling the speed that well, I had set pd011=100, so the lowest speed was 6000rpm. ( not wanting to burn out the spindle)
The Gpenny spindle I have suggests that you run it for 30 mins to warm the bearings up every time you use it. As it’s going in a router table that’s not ideal. I only use a 3min ramp up on the CNC router ( HY spindle I think). I would have assumed both have packed bearings - anybody has any experience as lack of good technical data makes it hard to make an informed decision.
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16-12-2024 #9
Yea you do and I think there is one for the POT as well.
I don't think you need to worry about that, if its a generic 2.2k water cooled Chinese spindle (like most are) just set a "ramp up" to something and you'll be fine.
That's crazy, you don't need to have it set to the much mate, I cant remember what mine is now but its seconds probably 10 seconds ramp up at the most!
What do you mean by packed? Have you seen the 2.2kw spindle thread on here ?
Link: The 2.2Kw Chinese Spindles - Info, Setup and Advice + MoreLast edited by Lee Roberts; 16-12-2024 at 03:42 PM.
.Me
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16-12-2024 #10
“Packed” with grease is what I meant by the terminology. As I assume if the lubricant has to warm up to work properly it’s grease not oil.
I will look at the link, I am currently in two minds whether to just fix the spindle moulder, as I have acquired some more tooling for it, my reasoning for the router table on steroids- as router tooling is cheaper. I was going to keep the spindle and VFD as spares for my CNC router. Annoying the spindle I got, is longer in length than the HY one on the CNC router.
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