Repairing Atlas 10" lathe

[Ross77]

Had to have a few days off myself to finish some Uni work. :sad:

Got a bit of time now before the next batch........

Anyway back to the lathe. I'm looking at using 2 lengths of 4x2 box on their side next to each other. I know normally it would be best to use them the other way up but the more I look at it the more I'm sure that once its all bolted together the legs are more than capable of taking all the loads, The problem seems to be the fact that as the bed is used as part off the structure and it is impossible to set the base up level to attach the bed. As simply over tightening the hold down bolts could flex it.

So the plan is to use the 4x2 to keep the top of the legs level and the correct distance apart so I can then level them and bolt it all down solid. the only thing is I'm not to sure wether I should weld it as this would cause more potential twisting problems no?

[bogstandard]

Ross,

Sorry I haven't answered before now, a major job broke out on the house, and it took me a fortnight to get the lads into shape and do it as I wanted.

I actually had my stand welded up by a mate who does it for a living, and by the time he had tack welded it to his 6ft x 6ft welding table, and got the full runs in, then ground things flat with an angle grinder, I only had to use about 0.010" shimming under one foot of the lathe and everything was spot on. I am a certified welder, but I am so far out of practice (over 25 years), I could never have achieved what he did. I keep thinking about buying another little welder, just to do those odd jobs about the shop.

If you bevel all the edges, and tack up and straighten as you get to way points, I shouldn't think you would have too much trouble getting it straight, or straight enough where a few thin shims will correct things as it is assembled.

It is this making everything rigid that pays off in the long run, without this intermediate frame, everything you want to achieve will be a stab in the dark.

Another project has come on line, but I should still be able to help if needed.


Bogs

[Ross77]

No worries John, I've been busy myself. Nothing to serious with the house I hope.

I will definitely make it as strong as possible. Am I doing it the right way by making the frame more rigid, bolt it down level and then add the bed, or should I be looking at starting with the bed and work down?

I can weld but never had to worry about heat distortion, maybe I'll just tack it and get someone else to finish it........Probably a bit OTT to get it stress relieved :heehee:

Reply when you can, Im in no rush and gratful for any advice, perhaps I should wait and just ask when I get to the Head - Tail stock alignment

[irving2008]

There's another Atlas on ebay just a smidgin north of me, at £100 with 20h to go, but with a reserve... and no bids... 10", 46" bed

[Ross77]

Thanks but I don't think I need another one.......3 lathes is enough for me:heehee:

Or are you tempted??? I think I had a good deal with the Halifax tho..as that is just the lathe for £100+ (they didn't do a 46" either!)

[Ross77]

Yet another cry for help :wave:

I've finally got around to looking at this again, welded up a frame, bolted it all down and leveled it up so its now rock solid, but I'm stuck on removing the spindle from the Atlas fixed headstock to rob the metal pulleys. The split caps on the Halifax were a doddle compared to this.

Ive looked at the 'atlas press' guide online and it makes it sound so easy... I just cant get enough clearance between the main pulley and the bearing housing to remove the woodruff key so the main shaft can slide out.

And I'm completely lost with disassembling the backgear from the eccentric cam...Anyway I'm sure there is some clever person on here that knows :whistling:

[bogstandard]

I'm sorry I haven't been available recently, health and bereavement issues reared their ugly heads.

I have done the spindle removal many times, and there is a definite knack to it.

It is very tight indeed, and the first thing you need to to is get the bull gear back towards the change gear end as much as possible, and the spindle as far forwards as it will go.

Then a slight tap on the top of the key in the position shown on the sketch should rotate the key in it's half round slot. As long as where you hit is further back than the centre position of the key, this should work.





Bogs

[Ross77]

Thanks Bogs. sorry to hear you are not well again.

Unfortunately I couldn't get that to work as I could only see about half of the key. I have no idea how this was assembled in the first place...... I had to resort to the rather drastic solution of filling the key down so it would slide out through the oil seal/collar.

That turned out to be the easy bit as once the shafts were out it was apparent that they are different. the Atlas spindle (top) has only one step in it whereas the Halifax spindle has 3 steps



So rather than just putting the metal Atlas pulleys and gears on the Halifax spindle I had to use the Atlas spindle as well, but due to the different oil seals that meant changing the bearings as well (although its probably a good idea to keep the rollers and shells together anyway.)

The back gear was another pain, I had to use the Halifax mounts, shaft and eccentric cams with just the Atlas gears. I probably didn't need to change it but the Atlas gears are definitely stronger and they also had the spring washers to stop it sloping around.

I think its fair to say that the Halifax isn't a direct copy of the Atlas and not all parts are interchangeable, even the bolts have a finer thread.

[bogstandard]

Ross,

You can make it a lot easier for future events, the dust cover nearest the key can have a small close fitting cutout filed into it, that will allow the shaft to come out with the key still in position. As long as you keep the cutout at the top when you fit the cover into the casting, it will still do it's job of retaining oil in the bearing for as long as possible.

That would also help in getting the outer dust cover off, as the key would push on the inner bearing race and knock the outer cover out when it moves the bearing.

If the bearings have been pre-loaded for any length of time without being run, you will find they may have 'brinelled', they feel ratchety, and as such are of no further use.
The Atlas bearings have a specially shaped outer race and as far as I know, are special order only from Clausing (the genuine US Atlas spares company) themselves, and worthy of a second mortgage.
The inner race is a standard Timken part. I had a friend regrind the inner faces of the old outer races, and then I fitted new Timken inners. That came to a fraction of the cost of new bearings all round. I now have my own facilities to do that sort of regrind if you need it.

John

[Ross77]

You can make it a lot easier for future events, the dust cover nearest the key can have a small close fitting cutout filed into it, that will allow the shaft to come out with the key still in position. As long as you keep the cutout at the top when you fit the cover into the casting, it will still do it's job of retaining oil in the bearing for as long as possible.

Thanks. Thats a good idea and makes perfect sense now I know how the oil system works. Hopefully I wont have to do it very often as I will be using the removable clamp headstock of the halifax.

Not so sure on the the bearings tho. they seemed a bit ratchety when I was cleaning them and rotating by hand but now they are back in the head stock they seem nice and smooth. Which is the best way to tell?

Do you have supplier details and specs for inner timkin bearings? and how much would you charge for the regrind? (rubber cheque book at the ready...lol)

At the moment I'm just rebuilding to make sure every thing works and fits correctly. I will then tear it down to repaint and fine tune. I presume that damaged bearings would give poor surface finnish and could be corrected later?

just out of interest to anyone repairing a halifax with atlas parts. the cross slide screw is the same size and overal length, but the halifax has a longer treaded section and therefore extra travel. I opted for the shorter atlas one as IMO it is a better set up with the adjusting nuts to take out all the slop in the system.