Ross,

Rather than just sticking the normal legs straight on, I would suggest you try to introduce a little more strengthening to the main bed.

This has the effect of reducing sagging in the middle.

If you have access to welding equipment, I would get some 2.5" or 3" heavy duty square section tube and make up an oblong frame, as long as the ends of the lathe support feet and the same width as the feet and bolt the lathe to that first, then bolt the legs underneath. I would also put in a couple of cross braces into the frame to stop the twisting effect.

This will have a great effect on making the lathe more rigid.

I would go for the later designed head, it will allow easier stripping down and belt changes, but put the metal pullies on to begin with.

The head will need the taper bearings preloaded as you get towards running it. You can read up on it, or I can tell you how to do that a little later.

I had a Babbit plain bearing head on mine to begin with and the surface finish results were much better than the bearing head, but it just couldn't compete with the high speed the bearing head offered. You can run a Babbit (white metal) bearing straight off, as soon as it has had a lube, whereas with all taper bearing lathes, you should allow the lathe to run for a few minutes for the spindle to warm up and thus spindle to 'grow' before taking you first cuts. That is the reason for the preload, the bearing is tight while the machine is cold, but after the spindle has warmed up and extended, the bearings are in a perfect no end load position.

Another couple of days off now

Bogs