Wood Lathe - fitments

[Musochasle]

Hi,

I recently bought a work bench and attached to it was a wood lathe which I'd like to start using it.

It has come only with centres and no faceplate so I'm trying to work out what size thread it's likely to have. There is a peel off label (most of which is missing) which has the letters SGS but I can't find any info on SGS wood lathes on-line - does anyone know anything about them, i.e. is it likely to be metric or imperial thread ? Is the company still in existence? The lathe has a large Gryphon motor if that helps. I have attached a photo.

As you can probably tell I'm very new to this so any thoughts would be most appreciated. Thank you.

[John S]

Looks home made to me, it doesn't even have a bed as such.
It's probably been built from off the shelf components like a Picador spindle, that rusty drive centre looks like it's been made from an ordinary nut. can you unscrew this and measure the thread under ir ?

[Musochasle]

That is possible, the bed has been sawn in two to accomodate bannister rails!! It is rusty indeed but not beyond recovery (I believe) to a mad person like me who likes getting things working! I have dismounted the lathe at the moment and the nut is awaiting the WD40 to work so I'll try what you suggest and post back. Many thanks.

[GeorgeD]

This definatly homemade,you can tell by the crude nature of the thingand the pillow blocks look new.

SGS is probably just the initials of the person that made it?

[Musochasle]

In that case should I look for manufacturers names on the pulleys and chisel post to get a clue about replacement parts etc.? Or are there companies which sell parts for a "build-your-own"?

The lathe was kind of free with a 4' X 2' bench which also had a (now repaired) Record No. 52 vice - all for £7.50! so I don't mind spending a bit to get it going.

[GeorgeD]

Replacement parts for what? you can knck one of them up with stock items.

http://www.rdgtools.co.uk/acatalog/N...ing_Soon_.html
http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalo.../Pillow-Blocks

[Robin Hewitt]

You don't need a faceplate unless you are bowl turning, although even that that is quite possble without. What you do need is tailstock, a centre with prongs around it and a rest to support the tool.

Top tip for wood turning is cut, don't scrape. Rest the tool against the wood, high enough that it doesn't cut, bring it down slowly, as soon as it starts to cut that is the right angle

Robin

[Wobblybootie]

Assuming right handed turner ...
I use the 45X45 method with my bowl gouges (fingernail grind)
1 Tool tip on centre line with toolrest as close to the blank as possible
2 Angle handle end of tool 45 deg away from your body
3 Drop handle end of tool 45 deg downward
4 Move the tool in until the bevel rubs the blank, gently twist tool anticlockwise until a very small section of the cutting edge starts to cut ... tooling must be 'scary sharp'

Others may use differing methods.

[Robin Hewitt]

I use the 45X45 method with my bowl gouges (fingernail grind)

... and you have to advance the tool as you head for the centre.

Fortunately, it takes so long to do your first bowl you will be an expert at this before you get to the finishing cuts

Don't be tempted to go thin, it will split when it dries out. If you really want to go thin season it some more after removing most of the wood.

[GeorgeD]

The best people to advise you on woodlathes are ones that use wood lathes....

http://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/