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08-09-2013 #1
Cheers Irving, I'll check out that thread.
A couple mor photos of this afternoon's progress. Not huge amounts as I only had a couple of hours and I forgot to fetch my step ladders so couldn't finish the roof.
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08-09-2013 #2
. .You made it out of lolly pop sticks .. .
. . . . Looking good.
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08-09-2013 #3
Good job on the shed, it's gone up in double quick time. If you want some more information on insulating a shed have a look over on UKWorkshop. Shed builds come up fairly often and the question of insulation must have come up dozens of times. The other problem that comes up often with sheds is condensation on tools, people have come up with some ingenious ideas for ways to stop things going rusty but the best option seems to pretty much always be ventilation.
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08-09-2013 #4
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08-09-2013 #5
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09-09-2013 #6
I know it's a bit of a cop out but at some time in the next 12 - 18 months I'll be moving house as this one is rented (somewhere bigger and preferably with a garage) so I don't want to make a shed/workshop that is too difficult to dismantle (with this one I just take the roof off and pull apart the lollypop sticks
) so I'm a bit loathed to start battening the interior, putting insulation on and then boarding out. However I do see the need to insulate and make damp proof as I'll have my RC stuff in there as well as my CNC router. The other thing is that if I start fixing battens to the walls then I'm stopping the walls from expanding and contracting which is what the manufacturer says you have to do (and who am I to argue!!) so in a bit of a quandary. I think I'll settle for thinner than optimal insulation and look at how I'm going to fix the battening (slotted fixings perhaps?) but all this is immaterial until I can finish the shed off which I'm hoping to do after work this week!!
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09-09-2013 #7
Obviously not a job for now but looking at the way the shed is built I wonder if you could attach insulation to the outside? The ears would act as a natural edge for the insulation and somewhere to fix light boarding. It looks like you have pretty good overhang on the roof everywhere but the back so you might be good to go. It would be good to maintain the space on the inside and it would make hanging tools up easier - just bang a nail in.
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14-09-2013 #8
Cheers Jazz ill look at the design again and take into account your comments...
This afty was finishing the shed off. Well nearly as got to go out in a bit so had to stop. Its all done apart from the boards on the roof edge at one end but as the boards need altering I've run out if time. Given it a coat of clear preservative so should be ok when it rains. Still needs another couple of coats to be on the safe side.
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14-09-2013 #9
Looking good Neil.
I'm a little concerned thou that your going to put a heavy frame of that flimsy looking wooden floor.!! Let me tell you when this machine gets moving around it will Rock that shed so much you'll think Pink Floyd is in there.. Lol
You will Seriously need to strengthen floor and brace the inside walls for the size machine you have planned, honestly can stress the amount of inertia and movement the machine will send thru that shed if frame and structure is not Rock solid will blow your mind.
When my my machine was horizontal and not bolted to floor then on full tilt it would easily walk about the workshop when doing jobs with lots or direction changes.
Even now it's vertical and bolted to Concrete block wall if I put my hand on wall when cutting fast materials like woods I can feel the wall vibrate so your shed walls will quiver like a jelly if not solid.!Last edited by JAZZCNC; 14-09-2013 at 07:09 PM.
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14-09-2013 #10
Dean, the plan is to put a second floor of 18mm ply screwed to it and then bolt the machine through the floor and into the base which has 12 4" x 4" posts concreted into the ground. I'll insulate the walls with Celotex and skin it with 12mm ply. This will be screwed to the walls and braced round the top and bottom. Its only a temporary shed/workshop until we move so hopefully it won't shake itself to bits before then!!
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