Question regarding CMD 10 Collet sets

[Englishlever]

Thanks for the thought, I did consider individual collets and a separate chuck, but it made my head hurt just thinking about what I'd need and what I'd get away with.
I bit the bullet in the end and measured a range of cutters and other stuff I've got - all sizes between 6mm and 13mm shanks, then I've my watch and clockmaking stuff which is way smaller than that across a broad range of sizes.
It also filtered into my brain that the headstock spindle on my Myford 7 is MT2, so I'll be using the kit on that too as I've a lot of rod stock to play with.
Ah well, off to exercise Google's servers some more .............

[Jonathan]

I bought some ER25 from eBay - this hong kong seller.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/19pcs-ER32-2-2...efaultDomain_3

(He's got the chucks too - may not necessarily be the cheapest on eBay, I've not checked)

The ones I got seem good. I've measured the runout and it's very low.

[Jonny]

I would think again using those chinese ER type collets, they dont grip, take an eternity to change cutters over, even longer to change size. Lose around 30 to 38mm height as well.
If you must choose ER types go for a decent brand name.


Why does no one use finger collets MT tapered collets, essentially the same as R8 types. Can change cutter over in 8 secs and they grip.
Also lose less spindle to table height, practically nothing sticking out.
MT2&3 are good from http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalo...llets---METRIC just get the one with same thread as your draw bar. You will never look back!
To ondo, spanner loosen 1/4 of a turn, tap with hammer cutter drops out, insert new cutter, tighten draw bar up, job done- simples.